At The Spectacular Rani Ki Vav!

It is a beautiful morning. We set out from Ahmedabad by taxi. Our destination is the famed 11th-century stepwell Rani Ki Vav on the banks of the river Saraswati in Patan district about 125 kilometres away. Stepwells were built in arid regions like Gujarat and Rajasthan as a source of water for the local population and travellers. Being underground, they were cooler, providing respite from the harsh sun. Occasionally they were used as venues for gathering and celebrating festivals.

The road from Ahmedabad is comfortable and we reach in about two-and-a-half hours. We enter the premises after buying our tickets (Rs. 25 for Indians and Rs. 300 for foreigners). The well is situated amidst sprawling lawns that are well-maintained and very green. 

The stepwell is believed to have been commissioned by queen Udayamati in the memory of her husband Bhima I of the Chaulukya (also known as Solanki) dynasty in 1063. Its construction took 20 years. Some records show that it was made around 1032. It is certain that the stepwell was constructed about a thousand years ago. It is elaborately decorated with stunning sculptures and is seven floors deep, earning a moniker of "Inverted Temple" for itself. 

At some point in time, the stepwell was flooded by the river Saraswati and silted over. It is not known for how long the well remained hidden underground, perhaps for some centuries. It was noticed during excavations carried out in the 1940s. The Archaelogical Survey of India (ASI) restored it in the 1980s. Now it is protected by the ASI and is one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in India.

A bit overwhelmed by the size of the huge stepwell, I start descending it. Wearing comfortable shoes is a must. The stairs are somewhat tricky and require taking firm steps with full attention. There are no handrails or supports, so one has to be slow and steady. At every level, there is a wide platform to stand and admire the sculptures around you before climbing down to a lower level. You cannot go all the way down to the water level. The access is closed for the last two levels or so.

As you go down, it gets cooler and more pleasant. The hats and sunglasses come off as the stepwell turns into a comfortable retreat. The pillars, beams and walls are adorned with numerous carvings. They depict Gods and Goddesses in their traditional forms as described in the epics, animals, flowers, scenes from daily life and geometrical patterns. The proportions, postures and facial expressions in the sandstone sculptures tell us a lot about the sculptors' excellence in their craft. And the sturdy structure of the stepwell is a testimony to the architectural mastery of builders of that time. It withstood the silt, clay and sand that the floods deposited inside it for centuries!

Some panels in Rani Ki Vav feature intricate geometrical designs. The patterns in the well-known patola sarees that are woven in this region are inspired by these designs. Isn't it amazing? 

Photos by Lata

One of the several panels with exquisite carving! If queen Udayamati built Rani Ki Vav, her husband Bhima I constructed the Sun Temple at Modhera a few kilometres away. Read about it here.

Incidentally, the Rs.100 currency note features Rani Ki Vav on the reverse side.

Revering The Sun At Modhera!

Modhera Sun Temple lies at a distance of about 100 kilometres from Ahmedabad in Gujarat. Situated in Mehsana district, the temple was built a 1,000-years ago by Bhima I of the Chaulukya (also known as Solanki) dynasty. It is not used for worship anymore. Now it is a protected monument, managed by the Archaeological Survey of India. I was highly impressed with its grandeur and beauty when I visited it recently. There are trains and buses to reach Modhera from Ahmedabad. One can also use a taxi which takes about two-and-a-half hours. 

There is an entry ticket for Rs. 25 per person to enter the temple complex. The premises are well-maintained with greenery and landscaping. There is a museum inside the complex. The path to the museum is bordered by several sculptures that were excavated from this location. Inside, the museum houses more such sculptures that represent the Maru-Gurjara style from the 11th century.

The temple is a short walk away from the museum. It comprises three separate parts: a stepped reservoir (kunda), an outer assembly hall (sabhamandapa or rangamandapa), and the innermost sanctum (garbhagriha) situated inside a hall (gudhamandapa). All the structures feature intricate carvings on their walls, pillars and ceilings. The figures in the carvings are derived from epics such as Ramayana or Mahabharata. Also, there are images of other Gods and Goddesses, animals, floral motifs, geometrical patterns and scenes from daily life. 

The garbhagriha is vacant and locked now, but at one time it housed an idol. The temple is designed in such a way that the first rays of the sun illuminate the sanctum during solar equinoxes. And when it is the summer solstice, the rays touch the first step of the kunda at sunrise, while at noon the sun is directly above the temple so there is no shadow.  It is amazing to see how architecture and astronomy were used together to worship Sun a thousand years ago.

The walls are chock-a block with awesome art. My guide pointed out several panels depicting well-known instances from epics. I might have missed them if it was not for him. Sometimes a particular sculpture may get overshadowed by surrounding sculptures, at other times it could be placed high up on the wall making it difficult to see it properly. I recommend hiring a certified guide to understand and appreciate the beauty of this awesome monument.

This is one of the many images of the Sun God at the Modhera Sun Temple. The Sun is depicted in a standing position in his chariot that is drawn by seven horses.

Photos by Lata

If the visit to the temple was very fulfilling, the light and sound show in the evening was the icing on the cake! The commentary was well-researched and informative. And the lights projected on the monument in different hues were mesmerising. It was a memorable audio-visual experience. A board in the temple complex described it as the "First Solar Powered 3D Projection Mapping Show & Heritage Lighting On Modhera Sun Temple". 

A temple erected to honour the Sun God featuring a show powered by solar energy...what could be more fitting than this! When the bit about solar power was mentioned in the commentary at the end of the show, the audience applauded in appreciation.

A Scrapbook Of Photos From Ahmedabad!

Here are some pictures from my recent visit to Ahmedabad. They say, a picture is worth a thousand words, so I will let the pictures do most of the talking. However, I am adding a few words to each picture to give it some context, and to make it relevant and more meaningful.

Atal Bridge runs across the Sabarmati River, occupying a pride of place along the Sabarmati Riverfront. Meant only for pedestrians, this is 300 metres long. Inaugurated in 2022, its design is inspired by kites underlining the importance of Uttarayan, or Kite Festival celebrated in Ahmedabad every year in January. I enjoyed crisscrossing the bridge on foot. I visited it in the early evening. Missed out on the illuminations that make it look like a sparkling necklace once it gets dark.

This store was more like a warehouse! Crammed with food products from floor to ceiling, it offered a variety of dry sweets and savouries--farsan in Gujarati--, that Gujarat is famous for. I ended up picking up more than I had planned for.

These little charkhas look neat, don't they? And surely they could not have been on display in a better location! Their vendor has laid them out for customers just outside the Sabarmati Ashram. 

Historic Bhadra Fort built in 1411 by Sultan Ahmad Shah in the walled city of Ahmedabad. The much revered Bhadrakali Temple is situated in this complex. The fort functioned as a royal court and a British prison.

Bhadrakali Temple in the early morning sun with the turrets of the fort in the background. I happened to visit it on a Tuesday, a special day for worshipping the Goddess. A group of people was busy singing bhajans to the accompaniment of musical instruments. The atmosphere was festive as the temple was getting ready to celebrate the 615th foundation day of the city of Ahmedabad. 

A stall inside the temple selling flowers, coconuts and red chunaris that visitors buy as an offering to the Goddess. 

The imposing Bhadra Fort. It was not possible to capture both the turrets in the picture.

This amazing gateway stands tall in the walled city. A relic from the past connecting the present with yesteryear.

This is Tankshal-ni-Haveli situated in a narrow and busy lane. This area housed the coin mint in olden days. The haveli was probably built in the 1800s. It features stunning woodcarvings. It was converted into a girls' school in 1925, but has been in disuse for a long time now. Passersby and residents are unaware of the importance of this structure and it is a pity to see it stand amidst the chaotic environment of its surroundings.

The fine carving on the upper floor of the haveli!

Mannequins in the cramped lanes of Ratan Pol. This is a bustling market selling fabrics and garments. 

Photos by Lata

I chanced upon this group of women dressed in their finery inside the Adalaj stepwell. Their bright attire provided an interesting contrast to the light coloured backdrop. At the same time the reds and pinks in the foreground accentuated the beauty of the exquisite setting.

Adalaj Stepwell: A Marvel In Sandstone!

Stepwells ( vav in Gujarati and baoli, bawdi in Hindi) have been a part of arid regions like Gujarat and Rajasthan for many centuries. Some were used as luxurious baths by the royalty, while others provided water to the travellers and local residents for their daily needs. They also served as gathering spaces where people got together for social and religious events. Very often, they were large structures, several floors deep, with ornate carvings.

I got an opportunity to visit one of the very beautiful stepwells in Gujarat recently. Situated in Adalaj near Gandhinagar, it is a five-storeyed sandstone structure built in 1498. Called Adalaj Stepwell or Roodabai Stepwell, it is a popular tourist spot easily accessible from Gandhinagar and Ahmedabad at a distance of about five and 18 kilometres respectively.

It is hard to tell from the outside that this is the site of such an important heritage structure. The surroundings are dusty and ordinary, just like one would find in a small town. As you enter the premises, there is a ticket window (Rs. 25 for Indian visitors and Rs. 300 for foreign tourists). Done with the ticket, you walk to the area where steps lead you down towards the bottom of the well. The well is completely covered, but for a circular opening above the water body.

The steps are in good shape and easy to use. I start climbing down, stopping on each floor to appreciate the carvings. There are deities, human figures, elephants, geometrical designs, trees, flowers on the walls and the pillars...all of them exquisite in their proportions and symmetry. The sheer scale of the intricate art fills you with awe and amazement. One can climb down almost to the level of the water which stands in a rectangular pool. It gets a bit dark and cooler as you go down, a welcome respite from the bright sun and warm temperatures outside. 

It is a pleasant morning and visitors are trickling in continuously. I meet two large groups of pre-teen school students, led by their teachers. They bring a lot of colour and positive energy to the ancient monument. Tourist guides are at work pointing towards significant carvings, and doubling up as photographers capturing their clients' images against the magnificent backdrop. Soon, the images will find their way to different social media platforms!

I find a nice spot on one of the steps and soak in the ambience. I recall the poignant story behind the making of this well. 

Photos by Lata

The story goes that Rana Veer Singh of the Vaghela dynasty ruled this area in the 15th century. It was a dry region and his subjects often faced water scarcity. As a helping gesture to them, he took up the construction of this stepwell. But as luck would have it, he got killed in a battle with Mahmud Begada, the Sultan of a neighbouring kingdom before the stepwell was completed. The Rana's wife Roodabai (also known as Roopba) wished to commit sati, but Begada, who was attracted to her beauty, stopped her from committing sati and proposed to her. She agreed to his proposal on the condition that he would complete the construction of the stepwell. Begada readily took up the project and brought it to its completion. Perhaps this explains the fusion of Hindu and Islamic styles in its making. Roodabai, satisfied that her husband's wish got fulfilled, jumped into the same well and ended her life. 

The story gets sadder with the account of Begada killing the masons who made this stepwell. It is said that he did not want them to make something as wonderous as this well so he sentenced them to death. One can see their graves in the premises. They did not live, but their creation continues to live in all its grandeur and splendour.