Delhi In January: Rajpath Beckons!

Delhi is in the grip of the harshest phase of winter. Not just nights, but even the days are very cold. Sometimes the sun does not appear for days together. It is hard to do one's routine chores as everything seems to take twice as much time. Your fingers and toes go numb and the shivering doesn't stop. There is no let up in the foggy conditions. An occasional winter shower of rain worsens the misery of those who cannot bear with this weather. The sun is very much sought after, having lost its ferocity of the summer months. People are seen huddling in a small patch of sun-if they are lucky enough to find one-just outside their homes, on footpaths, in parks or just about anywhere. The roadside tea stalls do brisk business. A hot cup of tea is welcome any time of the day.

The month of January brings with it Lohri which is a fun festival that marks the beginning of the end of winter. Traditionally a harvest festival, it is celebrated by farmers in Punjab and Haryana. Delhi is not far and Lohri is very much a part of the festive calendar in the city. It brings joy to those who are weary of the chilly season, for celebration involves singing and dancing around a bonfire. Now nothing can be more welcome than a warm bonfire and the customary good food associated with this particular festival. Families and friends get together and relish sweets made with sesame seeds and jaggery, roasted peanuts, popcorn, makke ki roti and sarson ka saag.

The majestic Rajpath gets ready for the biggest spectacle of the year. Preparations start well ahead of time. One can see workers busy at putting up some structures on both sides of this splendid avenue months before the event. They are erecting stands where spectators sit for watching the grand Republic Day Parade. The imposing Rashtrapati Bhavan, South Block, North Block and the entire Rajpath all the way up to the impressive India Gate wears a festive look as the day approaches.

Photo by Antônio Milena, CC-BY-3.0-br

Most of us have been watching the Parade on TV for many years. I managed to watch it live from the Rajpath only once. You have to start really early, leave your car at a faraway parking lot and walk the rest of the distance to your designated seat. There are strict security checks and one is not allowed to carry anything to the venue. There is excitement in the air as people dressed in colourful woollens take their seats waiting eagerly for the Parade to begin.

Photo by Antônio Milena, CC-BY-3.0-br

The homage to the unknown soldier at the Amar Jawan Jyoti under the India Gate, the smart march past by various regiments of the Armed Forces, incredible stunts on motorbikes by daredevil military personnel, National Bravery Award-winning children seated ceremoniously on elephants, attractive floats from various states, energetic dances by school children and the spectacular flypast by Air Force aircraft are all familiar images etched on our collective memory. It sure is an exhilarating experience to be there when the Republic Day Parade progresses down the Rajpath on a cool winter morning in Delhi.

Photo by Amit Kumar CC-BY-SA-3.0

Equally uplifting is the Beating Retreat Ceremony held at the sprawling Vijay Chowk three days after the Republic Day. It marks the end of the Republic Day celebrations. It is a beautiful ceremony that starts in the late afternoon and ends at dusk. Military bands play martial tunes and other compositions with such energy that they echo in your mind long after the event is over. The ceremony ends with the magnificent buildings on Raisina Hills being lit up just when the sun is about to set. A truly magical and memorable way to draw curtains on the Republic Day festivities.

A Dance Festival By The Seaside

If December-January is the music season in Chennai, it is also the tourist season. Indian as well as foreign tourists descend on the Tamil Nadu capital during these months to enjoy the moderate weather and visit places of their interest. Mahabalipuram (better known as Mamallapuram locally), is a must on the itinerary of any tourist visiting Chennai. Situated at a distance of only 55 kilometres, it is a quiet, small town by the sea with ruins of ancient stone temples scattered around a small area. Believed to have been built between the 7th and the 9th century, these temples with their exquisite carvings attract a lot of visitors.

 

Those visiting between December 27, 2011 and January 26, 2012 have an additional treat in store for them at the beautiful Shore Temple. A classical dance performance followed by a folk presentation everyday at an open-air venue by the temple, which as the name suggests, is located by the seaside.

It is a government initiative, organised jointly by the department of tourism in the state government and the ministry of tourism in the central government. And the best part is that it is open for everybody, there are no tickets or passes.

A large stage and neat rows of plastic chairs greet you on your way to the Shore Temple. These arrangements are made on an open patch of land covered with lush green lawn. A little before people start taking their seats, powerful jets of smoke (maybe with some insect repellant) from a thick hose make sure that the insects will be away, at least for some time. All these empty chairs are taken when the performance begins. Those who do not get a chair, make themselves comfortable on the lawn.

The audience is a mixed lot, with foreign tourists in the majority. They are an excited, enthusiastic and curious lot. Many of them are sporting Indian outfits. They are eager to capture everything on their cameras so that they can carry the sights and sounds of India back home with them.

Just before the performance, I spot a group of young women in bright, identical Bharatanatyam costumes behind the stage. They look very pretty decked up in the traditional finery. I make my way to them and request them to pose for me. They oblige happily. They are all students of an accomplished dancer, Saranya Sai Prasanth.

The performance starts exactly at six. The young women strike beautiful poses in groups as well as individually, making the cameras go click-click in the audience. They are accompanied by a group of able musicians and singers, and together they make a package that captivates everybody present there. The bright, almost full moon and the cool evening breeze add to the pleasure. The ambience is simply lovely.

This is to be followed by a folk performance, but I have to give it a miss because of time constraints. It is a month-long schedule and different styles of classical and folk dance are on offer. I appreciate the fact that the performance began and ended at the time announced. There were no boring speeches or other formalities. Just a neat little glimpse into the vast cultural heritage of India for the tourists. A very welcome endeavour towards promoting tourism by showcasing our classical and folk dances. I hope this dance festival continues and grows in the years to come.

The festival is halfway through and there are still more than two weeks to go. If you happen to be in this part of the world during the next few days, this document might come in handy.

Delhi In December: Behind The Veil Of Fog

It is December. The sun rises reluctantly from behind the fog. The leafless trees are standing still, their bare branches looking mysterious in the hazy morning landscape. On some days, the fog is so thick that when you look out of your window in the early morning, you don't see anything except layers and layers of it, giving the view a misty, dreamy look. The best place to be at this hour is under your cosy quilt, but very few can actually afford to do so. Children have to be forced out of their beds to be in time for their school. One can see hordes of them - bundled up in warm clothes- waiting at bus stops all over the city. You wonder how hard it will be for them to hold a pen with their numb fingers and actually write something in their notebooks. But kids in Delhi are made of sterner stuff. They manage to tackle the extremes in their city's weather with a nonchalance that often eludes their elders.

Around mid-morning, when the sun is finally out and shining-albeit weakly-it is a beautiful day. Dahlias and chrysanthemums are in bloom, their umpteen shades a feast for the eyes. Take a walk in a park, go to the market or just soak in the sun anywhere, it feels great to be outdoors. Those who are fortunate to have a patch of land outside their houses, make good use of it by growing seasonal vegetables in it. It is very refreshing to see green leaves of coriander, mustard, spinach and methi, huge heads of cauliflower and cabbage along with the leaves of carrots and radishes that are growing underground in your neighbourhood. When a kind neighbour sends her fresh produce over, you can see how good a really 'fresh' vegetable tastes.

A visit to the Sarojini Nagar market or Dilli Haat in the late morning/early afternoon is very tempting. While the latter is mostly frequented by lovers of handloom fabrics and handicrafts, the former is popular with the masses. Clothes, footwear, luggage, utensils, household items, gifts, groceries, vegetables, fruits...one can find almost anything in the lanes and bylanes of this sprawling market. It is flooded with Christmas merchandise at this time of the year. Most of the goods available here are generally easy on one's pocket, making it a favoured destination of shoppers in South Delhi. The soft drink and ice-cream stalls are forgotten. Instead tiny shops selling tea are doing brisk business. And the spicy aloo-tikki has people queueing up outside a small shop that churns out the wonderful stuff. It is just right when one wants to take a break from the tough bargaining that is a part of shopping at the Sarojini Nagar market.

The sun begins to lose its warmth around dusk. It becomes dark quite early, and suddenly too. Time to get indoors and put on one's socks, mittens, mufflers, scarves, caps, sweaters...whatever. The concrete structures that our houses are, turn into ice-boxes in the absence of heating. Icy water gushes out of the taps, especially at night and early in the mornings. People who cannot tolerate this, find winters to be a difficult time. But, for those who are fine with it, this is the right season to be in Delhi. Barring a few very cold and sunless days, the daytime is usually pleasant.

Travelling in and out of Delhi by train or air? Now that's a different story. Seasoned travellers avoid Delhi during winter months if they can. But those who must visit Delhi or transit through it, find themselves completely at the mercy of the fog that seems to have its own mind. There are indefinite delays, flight diversions, missed connections, chaos at the airport and railway stations resulting in a lot of discomfort and uncertainty. This is one instance where nature makes us realize that it is in command, and we just have to bow to its wishes.

I have filled this post with some wonderful images of blossoms captured by Prateek a few years ago at a chrysanthemum show at the Dilli Haat. Hope these bring alive the colours of a Delhi winter on your screens and touch your hearts with their awesome beauty.

The Not-So-Perfect Picture

'The Dirty Picture' (TDP) displays the usual disclaimer in the beginning about it being a work of fiction and any similarity between a character and a person living or dead being coincidental. But everybody knows that it is not just inspired by, but based largely on the life of Silk Smitha who dominated the South Indian film industry with her overt sensuality and uninhibited performances in the eighties and part of nineties. Vidya Balan brings alive the magic of the voluptuous Silk on the screen with a lot of substance--literally and metaphorically--she even put on some weight for this role.

Reshma, who is a poor village girl renamed as Silk in the industry, is bent on making it big in films, her plain looks and lack of polish notwithstanding. Similarly, Vidya the actress has left no stone unturned in her portrayal of the somewhat complex Silk, who likes to shock people with her outrageous costumes and unconventional behaviour; but is uncouth (crude language, frequent winking) and childlike when it comes to her longing for being accepted by her estranged mother. We first see her as an unattractive young woman in a half-saree and ill-fitting blouses, sporting hair that has been oiled, combed and tied tightly. Then she metamorphoses into a glamorous film star. Vidya carries all this with elan, looking comfortable in the gaudy costumes and cheap jewellery, dancing with abandon on the garish sets surrounded by unusual props.

If there is anything that does not go well with all this, it is her dancing co-star Suryakant, played by a mousy Naseeruddin Shah. Though ageing, Suryakant is supposed to be a flamboyant superstar...and Naseer hardly looks like one. An actor of his calibre has been wasted in this role. He is not only a misfit, but has been reduced to a mere caricature, throwing tantrums around the sets and having his way by terrorising everybody. In contrast, a subdued Emraan Hashmi is quite convincing in his role of a serious director who does not want to give in to popular tricks to make his film a hit. Tusshar Kapoor is tolerable, to say the least. But who impressed me the most among the men is Rajesh Sharma who plays the street smart producer Selva Ganesh. His rule book is fairly flexible and he is there to make money. And he has no qualms about it. His character has nice shades of grey that he conveys very well.

A film like this that has such a sensitive substance at its core has an additional responsibility of rising above it lest it be accused of using the subject matter to its advantage...exposure in this case. And I am not sure if the film gets a clean chit on that. Also, as a film that tells the story of a star who was famous for her item numbers, it ought to have had great music. Vishal-Shekhar's compositions do not make a mark. They are simply forgettable. Nyla, played by Anju Mahendroo as the sole representative of media is irritating. A more mature handling of her character could have helped. Silk's diatribe against the hypocrisy and double standards of society at an awards function is jarring. Even if what she had to say was true, the manner in which it was said, did not quite strike a chord. Over all, a lot more work was needed in painting the characters of most of the major players.

The bottom line is that TDP will be remembered as a Vidya Balan film because she has breathed life in the character of Silk with her exuberant performance. The rest, sadly is not-so-perfect.

Delhi In November: It Is Fun Time!

If one is to list the best months in Delhi, November will most probably occupy one of the top slots. The ceiling fans are forgotten, the rajais and blankets are out, and hot ginger tea is just perfect to start your day with. School kids look different bundled up in their dark, heavy winter uniforms. Gone are the whites of the summers, replaced by greys, navy blues and olive greens. The hazy, lightly misty mornings are wonderfully alluring, filled with the promise of a cool, sunny day. When the sun comes out, it is the start of a glorious day; ideal for picnics, outdoor activities or simply lazing around in your backyard.

The vegetables in the market look fresher, greener and full of life. When the first batch of cauliflowers or the first bundle of methi leaves arrives in the market, many shoppers return home with them triumphant, happy as they are to bid goodbye to the tasteless summer fare. Soon, desi (country) tomatoes which are sourer and tastier than the sturdy salad variety, red carrots ideal for salads, fried rice, pulao and gajar-ka-halwa, long green pods bursting with smooth green peas, crisp white radishes, gleaming cabbages and fat bunches of spinach appear on the scene; very much to the delight of vegetarians. The fruit section looks attractive too, with oranges and apples dominating the scene.

It is the wedding season in the capital. Time for baraat, sangeet and mehndi ceremonies from Janakpuri to Sainik Farms ( à la 'Band Baaja Baaraat'). Cultural activities fill up the social calendar of the city. Theatre and music hotspots in the Mandi House area are abuzz with events which are a treat to the connoisseurs as well as laymen. The Bengali Market nearby seems to be the perfect destination for trying some tantalisingly sinful dishes, just after attending a music recital or watching a play. Pragati Maidan, the massive complex for exhibitions is not too far. And the crowds there have to be seen to be believed when it hosts the India International Trade Fair every year for two weeks, starting November 14th. It is a major business event that impacts the traffic on Mathura Road and other roads in the vicinity in a big way.

The pleasant weather adds to the merriment. The festive atmosphere that starts around Dusshera, continues through Diwali and lasts until Christmas. It is as if the Delhiites are determined to make up for the opportunities they lost in the long and oppressive hot months. Women don beautiful silks which they had abandoned in favour of light cottons through the summer. Sales and exhibitions at places like the popular Dilli Haat help one in refurbishing one's wardrobe, with lovely handloom and silk fabrics on offer from all over India. You are likely to find the mauve shawl or the burgundy dress material that you were looking for here.

The circular traffic islands in Central Delhi are very busy, especially in the afternoons. Some of them are so huge that they are actually parks. Babus working in various bhawans in the central district spend their lunch hour enjoying the gorgeous winter afternoon. There are all kinds of people there, some taking a nap, some reading and some playing cards. Hawkers selling munchies like peanuts and chips do brisk business. Occasionally, a chaiwala makes an appearance with an aluminium kettle and plastic cups that are small enough for just a sip of tea. In the residential areas across Delhi, women sit with a pair of knitting needles and colourful balls of wool, wherever they can find a patch of sun outside their home, crafting a sweater for a dear one, or making mittens for a newborn. They are so adept at it that they produce a beautiful pattern without even looking at their handiwork.

Food, clothes, outings, picnics, weddings, parties...all in all, it is fun time in the city. The only ones dreading the winter are those without a roof over their heads, sleeping outside railway stations, temples or under overpasses. As the sun sets early on a winter evening and darkness descends over the capital, it is a long, chilly night ahead...something they don't really look forward to.

Delhi In October: The Magic Happens!

October brings with it a promise of deliciously cooler mornings and pleasant evenings, although one has to wait for almost the whole month for that to happen. It is only towards the end of this month that the weather Gods decide to smile on Delhi. The early days in October are pretty warm, but some time during the later half, the magic happens. If you wake up early in the morning and step outdoors, the air feels different. And you wonder, could this be the reason behind the smiles on the faces of those who are out at that hour...morning walkers in neighbourhood parks, newspaper delivery boys, parents taking their children to bus stops and people queueing up in front of Mother Dairy booths to buy milk.

Politicians make a mandatory appearance in the early hours on Gandhi Jayanti at the Rajghat, their pristine white khadi clothes looking brighter in the mild sun. It is a sombre occasion, repeated every year with customary piety; telecast with strains of Bhajans and occasional chirping of birds in the background. The Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan near Regal in Connaught Place announces its annual discount sale, providing khadi lovers with an opportunity to stock up on their favourite apparel. With the introduction of designer khadi, it is no longer the staid fabric it once was. It has come a long way from the days of the freedom movement, turning itself into a cool and happening material for designer wear.

Huge images of Ravana take shape in various areas across the city, complete with 10 oversized heads. As they near completion, they are mounted in large grounds; their enormous bodies stuffed with firecrackers. Two smaller figures of Kumbhakarna and Meghnad stand on either side of Ravana. On Dusshera, around dusk, these go up in flames, filling the surroundings with deafening sounds from the firecrackers as they catch fire. The colossal effigies start collapsing, symbolising victory of good over evil. This spectacle takes place at many locations, prominent among them being the Ramlila Maidan and the Subhash Maidan.

Karva Chauth, familiar to everybody thanks to Hindi movies, is a big day for married women. They observe a fast, praying for the well-being and long life of their husbands. One can see heavily made up women in most neighbourhoods, sporting bright red sarees or dresses, their arms full with glass bangles and palms covered with intricate henna designs. Looking at the evening moon through a sieve, they accept the first sip of a drink or the first bite of food from their life partners. This must have been a private ritual that families observed in the confines of their homes. But almost all our festivals are turning commercial and Karva Chauth is no exception. Shops selling women's merchandise announce sales and beauty parlours offer special packages for this festival, giving it a new dimension altogether.

Photo by nkjain [CC-BY-SA-2.0]

Talking of commercialism, the most commercial of all our festivals is Diwali; Christmas and New Year being a close second. With all the gift-giving around, the joke in Delhi is to never open the dry fruit boxes that you may have received by the dozen. One is not sure how long ago these were packed, and it is better to just pass them on to somebody, who in turn will do the same. Jokes apart, it is indeed a time for new clothes, sweets, holidays and get-togethers. The dark night is illuminated by millions of lamps across the city to the accompaniment of thunderous bursting of firecrackers. The trail of haze and smoke that is left behind late into the night is there to stay for the next few months, as winter is about to set in in Delhi.

A Celebration Of Talent

The last three days were so full at the Svanubhava in Chennai that I feel very empty today. The lovely Svanubhava theme music is echoing in my mind throughout the day. They describe themselves as a cultural movement by students of the performing arts. It is amazing what a bunch of dedicated and enthusiastic people can put together. The Rukmini Arangam at Kalakshetra was buzzing with activity, what with hordes of school children and dance/music loving elders descending on it at nine in the morning every day. The day was chock-a block with performances and question-answer sessions back to back, but for a short lunch break and even shorter tea break.

Most of the artistes who performed are stalwarts in their fields and it was heartening to see how humble they are. When curious kids asked them about the feats they can so effortlessly perform in their chosen art form, they simply attributed them to the blessings of their Guru or God, not mentioning their own hard work and years of practice behind it. There was a fairly varied spread for all to enjoy. Vocal and instrumental music in Hindustani and Carnatic style, qawwalis, baul sangeet, thevarams (Shaivaite hymns), a Bharatanatyam lecture-demonstration, yakshagana, villu pattu (folk story-telling), and a discussion on 'Does Indian cinema reflect the reality of Indian women?'. Some of these performing arts were of special interest to me as I was watching them for the first time. My appreciation for villu pattu and yakshagana would have been several times greater if I had a good knowledge of Tamil and Kannada respectively.  But even without that they were a pleasure to watch because of the involvement and passion of the performers.

The ambience contributed a lot to the enjoyment. The open auditorium at the Kalakshetra and the informal seating arrangement made one feel as if it was a mehfil in a friend's house that one was invited to. Everybody sat together, everybody ate the same food together and everybody had a good time together watching whatever was going on on the stage. Almost all the volunteers in their twenties or early thirties were wearing traditional attire...veshtis and tops for men and cotton sarees for women. That presented a pretty picture too. A bunch of foreign students were no exception.

All these art forms have been existing for a long time, but when you experience so many of them in a short span of time, it makes you proud of your heritage as an Indian. The young men and women who belong to the Svanubhava team deserve a big applause for their efforts in bringing together such gems from various parts of our country, organising a celebration of their talent, and sharing it with dance and music lovers across the world. Webcasts of all the events have been made available on their blog for those interested.

The organising team headed by T M Krishna, an accomplished vocalist in the Carnatic style, has put in a lot of work and it shows. Fresh sheets about the day's programme were handed out everyday, giving brief but well-researched introductions about the artistes for the day and their accompanists, complete with lively illustrations. Students from several schools were not only invited to attend the event, but were encouraged to ask questions to the performing artistes. For many of them, this must have been their first exposure to the cultural scene in their city and country.

I sincerely hope that this movement continues and gets bigger every year. This year, after the Chennai leg, it has gone to Delhi, where it will be on until the 15th of this month. It will be nice to see more representation in terms of performances from states in the North, East and Central India in the future editions of Svanubhava. And inviting some younger artistes will be a good idea too. But for now, heartfelt thanks to the whole team for letting me share this wonderful experience, which has been very enriching and which I will cherish for a long time to come.

http://svanubhava.blogspot.com/2011/08/svanubhava-2011.html