Varanasi Vignettes 2

Unlike the evening aarti, the morning aarti is a less crowded affair. Part of a beautiful presentation called "Subah-e-Banaras", it takes place at the Assi Ghat every morning in a pre-dawn ceremony. When we start from our hotel to go to the Assi Ghat at an unearthly hour, the road is fairly busy with early risers. People desirous of an early morning darshan of Kashi Vishwanath make way towards the temple. Others walk to the ghats. 

We take an auto rickshaw to take us to the Assi Ghat a couple of kilometres away. The stage is set for the morning do. People take their places on the neatly arranged plastic chairs, others sit on the steps that border the area like a viewing gallery. The riverfront is ready with seven platforms which will be used by the men performing aarti. The breeze is cool and refreshing.

The proceedings start with a melodious recitation of Sanskrit verses by a group of talented schoolgirls. Their pronunciations and intonations of the complex words are bang on underlining the fact that they have taken efforts and worked hard at their presentation. The girls get a deserving applause and make way for the main event of the morning. 

Seven men dressed in co-ordinated dhoti and kurta sets take to the platforms. They start the ritual to the beat of a resounding gong. The horizon is still dark. The movements of the men holding lamps are beautifully synchronised and flowing. It was as if they  

were celebrating the start of another new day, or welcoming the sun or seeking blessings for everyone as they got ready to start their day. 

What a lovely way to begin a day! After the aarti is over, sunrise is still a few minutes away. A young woman takes the stage and starts playing the flute in what is an apt finale to the aarti. A bright orange sun makes its appearance above the horizon across the Ganga. People who have enjoyed the aarti in silence, start clicking pictures of the orange-red orb before dispersing. It is time for kulhads of piping hot ginger tea, and the tea stall outside the ghat beckons one and all!

Photos by Lata

Next stop in the morning is the Kabir Chaura Math. This is where the saint poet spent most of his life. This is a tranquil and serene place, so different from the sounds and crowds around the ghats of Varanasi. The Math is tucked in a narrow alleyway, its walls adorned with beautiful drawings inspired by the saint poet's life. Inside, amidst refreshing greenery, Kabir Sahab's relics are preserved in a temple. Some episodes from his life are illustrated in life-size metallic figures, while the walls feature some of his sayings in Devnagari text. We are fortunate to meet Shri Umesh Kabir who is a spiritual teacher residing at the Math. He shows us around and talks about the saint poet in a lucid way. Feeling completely sated after starting the day at Subah-e-Banaras followed by a visit to the amazing Kabir Chaura Math, we take his leave to get on with the rest of our day. 

To be continued.