If you are thinking of a nice weekend getaway from Chennai, Pondicherry
(now called Puducherry, but I am sticking to Pondicherry because more
people know it that way) is almost sure to top the list of the options
available. It is 160 kilometres from Chennai and it takes about three
hours to get there. Most of the route passes along the scenic coast. No
wonder that the highway is simply called the East Coast Road, abbreviated to ECR
in Chennai. One can take a bus or a taxi from Chennai. You may want to
stop at Mahabalipuram (Mamallapuram) on the way. This is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site, about 60 kilometres from Chennai. There are beautiful
temples carved in stone, situated along the beach in this small town.
The monuments are believed to have been built between the 7th century
and the 9th century. But they have been standing so close to the sea for
so long that the exquisite carvings have lost all their sharpness. Most
of them are just some irregular shapes with rounded edges. The finer
details of the works are lost, but the temples, chariots, pillars and
sculpted reliefs have stood the test of the time and look impressive
even today. That is the reason why Mahabalipuram is a popular
destination for tourists.
There are several beach resorts on the way to Pondicherry. It is an
interesting town...Pondicherry. Most of it looks like a typical coastal
town in Tamil Nadu, while a small part makes you feel as if you were
somewhere in France. Pondicherry came into being in 1673 under the French
rule. It was the capital of French India until as late as 1954. The
French Quarter is a charming little place, blessed with the lovely
backdrop of the Bay of Bengal. Many of the streets retain their French
names, while some buildings remind you of French villas.
Over the years, Pondicherry has become synonymous with Sri Aurobindo
Ashram. The ashram was founded by Sri Aurobindo, a prominent freedom
fighter, philosopher and poet, on the 24th November,1926. Soon after
that, he withdrew from public life, handing over the running of the
ashram to his French co-worker, Mirra Alfassa, better known as the
Mother. The ashram attracts lots of visitors from India and abroad.
Bureau Central, located on Rangapillai Street acts as the information
centre for the ashram and helps visitors in all possible ways, including
arranging accommodation in one of the ashram guest houses. I have made
only day trips to Pondicherry and so I did not get a chance to stay in any
of the guest houses. But I have heard that they are very good.
It is best to explore the French Quarter and the area around the ashram
on foot. I walked to the ashram and joined the queue of people waiting
for their turn to enter the ashram premises through a small door. I had expected the main ashram building to be
quite large, but it is surprisingly small, a rather unassuming structure
which you enter directly from the footpath outside. Later I came to
realize that the ashram is spread out over the French Quarter in the
form of numerous small units, all painted in the characteristic white
and grey. There are guest houses, dining halls, book shops, educational
institutes and cottage industries. These industries are engaged in
activities like batik painting, embroidery, handmade paper, incense
sticks, herbal soaps, candles, oils, perfumes and book publishing. You
have to see the variety of incense sticks sold under the brand name
'Auroshikha' to believe their extensive range. Their packing is very
attractive and their scent divine. SABDA (Sri Aurobindo Book
Distribution Agency) is a well-maintained bookshop selling literature
based on Sri Aurobindo's and the Mother's philosophy.
The main ashram building that houses the samadhi (tomb or cenotaph) of
Sri Aurobindo and the Mother, is open for visitors for four hours in the
morning and four hours in the afternoon/evening, with a two-hour break
in between. As you enter the premises, you are led through a
flower-filled little garden path towards the inner courtyard where the
samadhi occupies the centre stage. The samadhi is a simple marble
structure under the canopy of the branches of a large tree. But what is
striking is the elaborate decoration on it done with fresh flowers. It
is completely covered with an arrangement of colourful blossoms, making the area redolent with their mixed fragrance. People come silently,
kneel down to touch the samadhi with their forehead, then move away to sit
in the courtyard that extends on all four sides of the samadhi.
Everybody sits quietly, in meditation or prayer. No cell phones, no
music, no talking, no clicking of cameras as photography is not
permitted...only occasional chirping of birds. For most, this is the
high point of their visit to Pondicherry. Spending some quiet moments
near the samadhi is an enriching experience.
My favourite place to visit after the main ashram building is the
Goubert Avenue which runs parallel to the beach. It is within walking
distance from the ashram. The seat of the local government, the
secretariat is located along this avenue. Some lovely guest houses and
hotels occupy other places of pride along this beautiful promenade. The
beach here is lined with rocks, not sand. A prominent landmark in this
area is the tall black statue of Mahatma Gandhi standing under a white
dome supported by pillars. Walking along this not-so-crowded avenue with
balmy breeze blowing from the majestic Bay of Bengal is very enjoyable.
Another place of interest very close to the ashram is the Manakula
Vinayagar Temple. It has been around even before the French came and
settled in Pondicherry somewhere around 1670. It is a Ganesha temple and
there is always an elephant at the entrance to bless people. Outside,
there are little shops selling knick-knacks. I loved browsing in them
before buying some pretty incense stick holders carved from light green
stone. The lanes around the ashram are lined with small bookshops,
boutiques and little eateries. It is fun walking around there.
About eight kilometres from Pondicherry is the experimental township
called Auroville. It was founded by the Mother in 1968 with an idea of
international brotherhood and harmonious community living. At the heart
of this sprawling township is Matrimandir, a golden metallic sphere.
Entry into this magnificent dome is restricted as it is reserved for
those who wish to practise meditation seriously.
One can spend a few days in Pondicherry or one can just make a day-long
trip from Chennai, as I did. Either way, it is a trip that soothes you,
and refreshes you before you get back to your busy life in the city.
