Delhi In May: Summery Treats

The long summer has two distinct phases in Delhi, a dry one followed by a humid one. The month of May typically falls in the dry phase that is marked by hot, dry winds blowing in from the arid plains of neighbouring Rajasthan. For most of this month, the sun beats down mercilessly on the hapless residents of the capital, sending them scurrying for cover every now and then. The temperatures are high, the days are hot, the long afternoons unbearably hotter, and the nights are pretty warm. Add to that the frequent power cuts and you have the recipe for a perfect "potato in a pressure cooker" experience. The water coming out of your taps or showers is hotter than you would want it to be. Mind you, this is without using any kind of heating. The overhead storage tanks are normally located on the terrace and that is the reason why the water is already hot. So, if one wants a cooler bath, it is a good idea to fill a bucket with tap water and let it stand for some time before using.

If you dare to step out in this hostile weather, some wonderful visual treats are sure to greet you. The tree-lined avenues are adorned with the golden showers of the Indian Laburnum (Cassia fistula, amaltas) and the fiery canopy of the Flame Tree (Royal Poinciana, Delonix regia, gulmohar). Together, they paint the town red and gold. It is amazing how the trees that you barely noticed a few months ago, are now all aglow with the most magnificent look they wear especially for the summer. The abundant cheerfulness of the yellow and the overwhelming luxuriance of the red are truly spectacular.

Another yellow treat dominates the fruit markets. It is the king of fruits, the mango. Mostly yellow, the mango sports different shades of red, pink and green. It comes in a number of varieties, having different sizes and shapes. Fruit shops display glistening piles of this wonderful fruit, its unmistakable aroma tempting shoppers to buy some. Delhi, being in the North, gets chausa, dasheri and langda varieties of the fruit. But, it is also the capital of India and is home to people from other parts of the country as well as a big diplomatic community from all over the world. So, one or more of varieties such as neelam, kesar, banganapalli, sindoora can also be found in some select markets. The venerable alphonso from Ratnagiri is one of the most coveted, the langda from Varanasi being a close contender. Neatly packed boxes of alphonso occupy places of pride in fruit shops across the city. Produce of the cheaper, local variety is often strewn on the floor, making it easier for buyers to pick some of their choice. Aam (common) or khaas (special), we can say that an aam (mango) is always khaas (special)!

The schools are closed for the summer. The discomfort and high temperatures notwithstanding, Delhi receives many visitors during these holidays. Some are on their way up North to the hills. Others visit relatives with a view to do some sightseeing in and around Delhi. Many weddings are planned during these days. Naturally, they bring outstation guests to the city. A popular place to take your guests out is the India Gate lawns. Families can be seen camping there with picnic baskets after sunset. The sprawling lawns provide people with a breath of fresh air in the oppressive heat of the summer. Children can run around and have their favourite ice cream from one of the numerous ice cream carts lining the lawns. There are people selling balloons, potato chips and other small toys or eatables all around. The place is a good hangout, staying alive late into the night. A little earlier in the evening, the sound and light show at the Red Fort is a nice option too.

As is always the case, the not-so-privileged ones bear the brunt of extreme weather conditions, be it in a city, small town or village. Delhi is no exception. The soaring temperatures coupled with scarcity of water can be hard for anybody. For the homeless living on the fringes of the society, these are trying times. But then, which aren't?

Going High On A Swing

An 11-year old girl getting married to a 31-year old widower. Her parents agreeing to the alliance under some pressure because "she is past her marriageable age and too old to get a first-time groom". This is not the stuff of some tribal legend from a remote area. It was happening in an educated Chitpavan Brahmin family of repute in Pune in as late as 1873. This story showing the social fabric that was prevalent merely 139 years ago, is being brought alive on television screens in an ongoing Marathi series "Uncha Maza Zoka" (roughly translates as "My swing goes high") on Zee Marathi. The protagonists are Ramabai Ranade and Justice Mahadev Govind Ranade.

The society was wracked by many ills such as child marriage, female illiteracy, untouchability and banning widows from remarrying, while it was perfectly alright for a widower to do so. Widows--even as young as in their teens, or younger-- were not only not allowed to remarry, they were banished from leading a civil life, restricted to the confines of their parents' or in-laws' home, treated as outcasts on all auspicious occasions. If this was not enough, they were defaced by shaving off their heads, and forced to spend the rest of their lives in a dreadful, red, 9-yard saree. Devoid of any adornment, their appearance was a constant reminder of the tragedy that had befallen them.

Set in this milieu, this is a tale of the mis-matched union of Rama and Mahadev--fondly addressed as Madhav at home--and his relentless efforts to educate his young wife and liberate her from the shackles of some of the oppressive practices of that era, passed off in the name of "tradition". Madhav is progressive in his outlook, committed to encourage and support his comrades in particular and the society in general; in doing away with some of these age-old customs. Caught between his loyalty to his father at home and his commitments towards social reforms outside, he marries Rama against his wishes, his conservative father forcing the wedlock barely a month after the passing away of Madhav's first wife. This is the father's way of nipping the possibility of Madhav marrying a widow --if he were permitted to follow his convictions--in the bud. Madhav has to face the ire of fellow reformists for not practising what he had been preaching, but he deals with it stoically; the pain making his resolve to educate his wife firmer.

This is an excellent story being adapted for the small screen beautifully. The little girl playing young Rama is doing a fabulous job. Not only does she have to carry herself in a 9-yard saree, she has to show a range of emotions mouthing lengthy lines in a somewhat archaic Marathi. A carefree girl one moment and a married woman the next moment...she alternates between these two identities effortlessly. Each and every actor in the large cast is giving a brilliant performance. The youth playing Madhav is very impressive in his hugely understated portrayal of the young scholar. He has fire within him, but he is restrained by his circumstances. Surely a superlative effort by this actor.

The makers of this series have taken some liberty with the script, obviously to make it more interesting and dramatic. But they know their limits and are careful enough not to make it melodramatic. Their imagination has added a lot of value to the screenplay. All the characters and all the inter-personal relationships--Rama's relationship and rapport with her mother deserves a special mention--have substance and look very real. Four widows are part of this story. We get to see them as women, as human beings. They too have a heart buried within the folds of their red saree, resigned though they are to lead a life full of denials.

The sets and the props present a picture of middle/upper middle class Brahmin households of that era. Especially of interest to me are the kitchens where most of the chores were performed sitting on the floor. Large, empty rooms with minimum furniture look good too. The floors are bare, sometimes covered with a dhurrie. Perhaps the floors should have been earthen, instead of being tiled with rectangular stones? Perhaps the costumes and the jewellery should have been more commonplace, instead of the impeccable wardrobe being sported by the cast? Well, television, as a medium has some limitations and some compulsions. So, these small things can be ignored in the interest of the larger picture. And what a promising picture that is!

Delhi In April: Summer Is Here!

The summer has arrived in Delhi. It will be quite a while before the cool days and nights return again. The sun is bright and the breeze very warm. It is dry and dusty.

Delhiites have just the right remedy for these weather conditions. It is a rather large contraption, called the air cooler or desert cooler. These huge, metal objects are ubiquitous in the capital. They are often seen perched on a metal frame or stand, installed outside a window. As the water filled in the inside chamber evaporates, it draws heat from the surrounding air to do so, making it cooler in turn. The powerful fan then blows this cool air inside the room. These coolers are very effective and economical too, much more affordable than air conditioners. They are rather noisy, and there is no temperature control. I have enjoyed many pleasantly cool days and nights, thanks to these coolers. They provide enormous relief to the weary residents of Delhi. The flip side of using these coolers? The stagnant water (when the cooler is not in use), acts as an excellent breeding ground for mosquitoes. The warm temperatures help too. One needs to be especially careful in keeping the coolers clean, not letting unused water stand in them for too long.

Nature provides its own coolers too. Markets are flooded with watermelons and musk melons. The huge fruits spill out of Mother Dairy outlets. Sellers sit with heaps of melons on the footpaths, usually under a tree, waiting for customers. Tender coconuts, that were earlier found mainly in coastal areas, are available in Delhi too. Stalls selling fresh fruit juices by the roadside are in business again. Also on offer is a drink called "neembu lemon". It is basically fresh lime soda with some spices, like chaat masala, black pepper and salt. A very refreshing concoction indeed, with a name that never fails to amuse me. Cucumber slices, placed on slabs of ice entice people who are out on a hot day. The seller sprinkles them with a generous amount of powdered spices before serving them. They taste great, but the conditions in which they are served on the roadside are unfortunately not hygienic.

Mango trees wear a different look as they get covered with tiny white flowers. In fact, some early fruits, especially the raw ones, already hit the market. The tangy fruit is chopped into pieces, and mixed with spices and oil to make delicious pickles.

Schools reopen after a short break. In a few weeks, they will close for the summer vacation. It is back to the mostly white summer uniforms. All the woollens have been packed and stored safely. Loose, cotton clothes feel just right. Popular markets like Sarojini Nagar and Lajpat Nagar have very affordable, cool, cotton garments on offer.

This is just the beginning. The summer is here to stay for long.

Destination Kanyakumari!

We have seen our country being likened to a beautiful mother-figure in paintings, calendars, posters and even in our textbooks; with the majestic Himalayas as her crown and the ocean washing her feet. If one looks at these 'feet' on a map, one sees the southernmost tip of the Indian peninsula. That is exactly where Kanyakumari is situated. Growing up in central India, both, the 'crown' as well as the 'feet' seemed to be faraway places, which only a few had the good fortune to visit. If one was fascinated by the snow-clad mountains, one was equally taken in by the never-ending expanse of the ocean. Several decades later, the world seems to have shrunk. I have travelled quite a bit, both, within the country and outside. Recently when an opportunity to go to Kanyakumari came up, I was happy to grab it.

Located at a distance of 630 kilometres from Chennai, Kanyakumari is 14 hours by train from the Tamil Nadu capital. We set off from the Egmore station. The red and white exterior of this beautiful building is very impressive. The interior is grand too, with huge domes and wide corridors. Built in the Gothic style, this station is one of the two major terminals in the city, the other being Chennai Central. We leave Chennai in the early evening and reach Kanyakumari the next morning.

The pretty little station is very welcoming. It reminds us of the unhurried life in smaller towns. It is quite a contrast from the hustle and bustle of Chennai. Kanyakumari is a small town indeed, but it is one of the major tourist attractions in South India. The nearest airport is about 90 kilometres away in Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala. So, if one is not short on time, taking a train is the best option to reach Kanyakumari.  Other than its unique geographic location, what draws visitors to it in hordes is the Vivekananda Rock Memorial. 

Built mainly using donations from the common man (people could contribute as little as Re. 1) from all over India, this monument was completed in 1970 under the leadership of Eknath Ranade, an ex-general secretary of the Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh. It is built on one of the two rocks that are just 500 metres off the mainland. Swami Vivekananda, the great spiritual leader and reformer swam to this rock in 1892 and spent a few days there in deep meditation. He attained enlightenment there and later worked relentlessly for the betterment of India. This monument was built to commemorate that important event in his life. The rock was regarded as being sacred because it was thought to have been touched by the feet of the Goddess Devi Kumari. In fact, a structure resembling a human foot is the centre of attraction and worship in the Shripada Mandapam. A statue of Vivekananda in black stone stands tall in the other pavilion on the rock, the Vivekananda Mandapam. The waters surrounding the rock are special as three oceans--the Indian Ocean, the Bay of Bengal and the Arabian Sea merge at this point.

After freshening up and having breakfast at our hotel, we reach the place from where one takes a ferry to go to the rock, some time before noon. Our hotel has a check-in time of 10.00 hours, so people like us arriving early in the morning have to wait for some time before they can enter their rooms.

We are certainly not prepared for the long serpentine queues that extend several hundred metres--if not a kilometre--into the narrow bazaar street outside the entry point to the ferry. We realise that we have made the mistake of coming on a Sunday, the busiest day of the week. According to the tourist brochures, February is 'off season', but looking at the crowds that are swelling with every passing minute, it is hard to believe so. We briefly consider trying at some other time, but visiting the Memorial is our first priority. Besides, we are to leave Kanyakumari the next day. So, we decide to join the queue and wait our turn.

It is midday and the sun is very strong. After about 90 long minutes, we find ourselves at the window where one buys the ticket (Rs. 20 per person, to and fro) to the ferry. Going up to the platform and actually boarding the boat takes another 30 minutes. Once the boat gets going, we are at the rock in no time. There again, we have to buy some sort of a ticket (Rs. 10 per person). Rs. 20 and 10 are not big sums of money, but if they had made us pay these amounts at only one place instead of two, it would have saved some time. Remember, there are queues at each transaction?

Both the pavilions, the Shripada Mandapam as well as the Vivekananda Mandapam are solid stone structures, simple, yet elegant. The statue of Vivekananda is imposing, but I feel that some of its appeal is lost in the dull and dark interiors of the hall. Outside, it is a gorgeous day. The breeze is just wonderful. The heat and the humidity that sapped our energy while we were waiting in the queue, seem to have been overpowered by the strong currents blowing across the rock from all sides. The water around the rock is glistening in lovely shades of green, blue and grey in the bright afternoon. We sit on the steps, feeling the wind on our faces and getting refreshed with it.

There are some bookshops on the way out. They are filled with books, posters, calendars, pictures and other souvenirs, all of them of course with images of or quotations from Swami Vivekananda. People wanting to leave the rock have to stand in lines too. We notice that there are only two vessels ferrying visitors between the rock and the mainland. On a busy day like Sunday, they surely need more boats to deal with the crowds! The rock is not open for visitors in the evening. They make sure that everyone returns to the mainland before it gets dark.

The second rock houses a tall black stone sculpture of the Tamil poet and saint, Thiruvalluvar. But access to that rock is not allowed. This is a comparatively recent structure that was opened in January 2000. The squat and spread out Vivekananda Memorial on one rock, and the vertical dark figure of the saint-poet on the neighbouring rock dominate the skyline of Kanyakumari, visible from all the open areas near the shore.

Back on the mainland, there are usual shops selling knick-knacks, pearl necklaces and earrings, decorative items made with sea shells, and other small items that tourists usually buy. And restaurants catering to the large number of visitors from all over the country and abroad. Even though Kanyakumari happens to be in Tamil Nadu, cuisine from other parts of India is easily available in these little eateries. Many hawkers and shopkeepers speak a smattering of different languages to attract customers.

A short distance away from these eateries on the main road, what catches our attention is a small structure with pyramid-shaped projections in the roof. We enter it and are very happy that we did. Inside, are beautifully displayed terracotta panels depicting some incidents in the life of Swami Vivekananda, each complete with a brief account of that particular event in Hindi, English and Tamil. It is well-maintained, well-lit and packed with amazing information. It is a permanent exhibition, called the Wandering Monk. It is run by the Vivekananda Kendra, a spiritually oriented service mission. Just a couple of kilometres away is Vivekanandapuram, the headquarters of the Kendra. It is spread on a sprawling 100-acre campus. Other than spiritual and educational activities, it offers accommodation to visitors that flock to this town from all over the world.

Photos by Prateek

The unique location of Kanyakumari offers stunning views of the sunrise and the sunset. We are lucky to have a balcony facing the east in our room at the hotel, but not lucky enough to see the sun rise, as it is hazy at the horizon on that particular day. So, we 'see' the sun after it has come up quite a bit. For the sunset, we join hundreds of people who have gathered in a park to witness the red ball disappear into the ocean. There again, we have to be satisfied with looking at the sun that disappears behind the clouds when it is a little above the horizon. But it does throw up streaks of myriad shades of red, orange and pink in the evening sky that is a delight to watch. I guess one needs to stay here longer to catch a perfect sunrise and sunset.

Next morning, we visit the ancient temple of Devi Kanya Kumari (also known as Kumari Amman, Kanya Devi and Devi Kumari), after which the town takes its name. Looking at the small entrance, I could not have guessed its size. It is quite large. The interior is dark and deep. The image of the Goddess is beautiful, her face lit up with the oil lamps around her. As is the custom in many temples in South India, men are asked to take their shirts off before entering the temple.After some shopping and a nice lunch in a Rajasthani restaurant, we board the train back to Chennai.

Delhi In March: Goodbye Winter!

The first few days of March try desparately to cling to what remains of the winter, but soon it becomes clear that winter has finally bid goodbye to the capital and summer is on its way. That makes March a kind of 'in-between' month.

The sun, that was so sought-after all these days, is better avoided now, especially in the afternoons. The warm clothes and razais that hugged you like a dear friend, are abandoned...as if the friend just went out-of-favour. It is time to put away your winter clothes. Wasn't it just a few days ago that you had to remember to drink water? Now, you are thirsty often and a drink of cool water is always welcome. Vegetables don't look so tempting as they did earlier. Soon, they will disappear altogether, making way for summer fruits and veggies.

This month heralds the festival of Holi that marks the end of winter. It is one of the major festivals of North India. Other than essential services, most of the establishments are closed. People enjoy the day with colours and sweets. It is unlike any other festival. It has turned into a social occasion which is celebrated outside the home.  I have written a detailed note on Holi in one of my earlier posts. Here it is:

http://thisislata.blogspot.in/2011/03/holi-is-around-corner.html

Holi is fun for sure. But there is more to March. It brings with it the dreaded board examinations. Every year, lakhs of students appear for these exams routinely, but that does not diminish the awe they always generate in parents and students alike. Families who have children taking the boards, experience some tense times. Many working mothers take leave and stay at home to extend support to their children. Of late, there have been some helplines where professional help is just a phone call away for those who cannot cope with the pressure. Examinations are important, but parents, teachers and citizens in general need to come forward and do their bit in reducing the unnecessary stress that so many of our young minds are subjected to. Better communication throughout the year can help to detect stress levels in the students, and timely counselling can save many careers.

The Union Budget, referred to as the Annual Financial Statement in the Constitution of India is presented every year by the Finance Minister in the Parliament in the last week of February. But this year, it is to be presented on March 16. The postponement is due to Assembly elections in five states. Once the House passes the Budget, it comes into effect from April 1, the beginning of the financial year. The Finance Ministry in the North Block situated on the majestic Raisina Hill is the centre of all the action. What gets prepared there, has its repercussions in the whole country. The day after the budget is presented, all the newspapers are full of budget-related news. The budget is all over the news channels on the telly. There are the mandatory interviews with the aam aadmi, economists, financial wizards and most interestingly, the Finance Minister's spouse!
 

Delhi In February: Spring Delights

Vasant Panchami - which falls towards the end of January or the beginning of February -  is supposed to herald the spring season. In Delhi, It is still cold and sometimes wet too, for February usually brings some rain. But when it is not raining, most of the days are nice for an outing. Surajkund and Pragati Maidan are two very popular destinations for a day out, one for its Crafts Mela and the other for the World Book Fair. The chidiyaghar (zoo), Nehru Park, Buddha Jayanti Park, Lodhi Gardens, Children's Park near India Gate, Qutab Minar and several other parks and lakes in and around Delhi are teeming with picnickers, especially on weekends and holidays.

Some time during this month, the stunningly beautiful Mughal Gardens at the Rashtrapati Bhavan are thrown open to the public. They are normally out of bounds for people, remaining open only for about a month in the February-March interval. Naturally many turn up to enjoy the charm of the wonderful  gardens that are landscaped in typical Mughal style. Some rare flowers like tulips are in bloom along with other seasonal blossoms. Lush green lawns and lively fountains against the backdrop of the majestic Rashtrapati Bhavan indeed make for an unforgettable sight. The gardens are a horticulturist's delight with their carefully nurtured bonsai and herbal sections, ornamental flowers and manicured expanses of greenery.

Surajkund is on the outskirts of Delhi in Faridabad, Haryana. Literally meaning 'Lake of the Sun', it is an artificial reservoir built in the 10th century. For the last three decades, the name of this charming little place has become synonymous with the Crafts Mela, a fair showcasing the exquisite handloom fabrics and handicrafts from various states in India. Set in a rural ambience, this open-air fair is spread over several acres of land and attracts lakhs of visitors during its fortnight-long run. You can pick up lovely garments, silk and cotton fabric, sarees, bed sheets, quilts, handmade decorative or utility items for your home, pottery, bangles, earrings and necklaces made from different materials, bags, woollens, shawls, footwear and a whole lot of other knick-knacks here directly from the artisans. It is a perfect entertainment package where you can shop, sample a variety of food from different parts of India and watch folk performances.

While the fair at Surajkund appeals to most people, the one at Pragati Maidan is primarily for book lovers. The World Book Fair is held every alternate year at these sprawling exhibition grounds. Most of the huge halls at this complex are chock-a-block with books. The sheer size of this fair is quite overwhelming. Indian as well as foreign publishers bring books written in different languages, on a variety of topics and addressed to different age groups. If one can help it, it is a good idea to visit the fair on a weekday. Weekends are too crowded for comfort.

Flowers, handicrafts, books...there is something for everybody in Delhi in February. It is a fitting finale to the winter festivities.

Delhi In January: Rajpath Beckons!

Delhi is in the grip of the harshest phase of winter. Not just nights, but even the days are very cold. Sometimes the sun does not appear for days together. It is hard to do one's routine chores as everything seems to take twice as much time. Your fingers and toes go numb and the shivering doesn't stop. There is no let up in the foggy conditions. An occasional winter shower of rain worsens the misery of those who cannot bear with this weather. The sun is very much sought after, having lost its ferocity of the summer months. People are seen huddling in a small patch of sun-if they are lucky enough to find one-just outside their homes, on footpaths, in parks or just about anywhere. The roadside tea stalls do brisk business. A hot cup of tea is welcome any time of the day.

The month of January brings with it Lohri which is a fun festival that marks the beginning of the end of winter. Traditionally a harvest festival, it is celebrated by farmers in Punjab and Haryana. Delhi is not far and Lohri is very much a part of the festive calendar in the city. It brings joy to those who are weary of the chilly season, for celebration involves singing and dancing around a bonfire. Now nothing can be more welcome than a warm bonfire and the customary good food associated with this particular festival. Families and friends get together and relish sweets made with sesame seeds and jaggery, roasted peanuts, popcorn, makke ki roti and sarson ka saag.

The majestic Rajpath gets ready for the biggest spectacle of the year. Preparations start well ahead of time. One can see workers busy at putting up some structures on both sides of this splendid avenue months before the event. They are erecting stands where spectators sit for watching the grand Republic Day Parade. The imposing Rashtrapati Bhavan, South Block, North Block and the entire Rajpath all the way up to the impressive India Gate wears a festive look as the day approaches.

Photo by Antônio Milena, CC-BY-3.0-br

Most of us have been watching the Parade on TV for many years. I managed to watch it live from the Rajpath only once. You have to start really early, leave your car at a faraway parking lot and walk the rest of the distance to your designated seat. There are strict security checks and one is not allowed to carry anything to the venue. There is excitement in the air as people dressed in colourful woollens take their seats waiting eagerly for the Parade to begin.

Photo by Antônio Milena, CC-BY-3.0-br

The homage to the unknown soldier at the Amar Jawan Jyoti under the India Gate, the smart march past by various regiments of the Armed Forces, incredible stunts on motorbikes by daredevil military personnel, National Bravery Award-winning children seated ceremoniously on elephants, attractive floats from various states, energetic dances by school children and the spectacular flypast by Air Force aircraft are all familiar images etched on our collective memory. It sure is an exhilarating experience to be there when the Republic Day Parade progresses down the Rajpath on a cool winter morning in Delhi.

Photo by Amit Kumar CC-BY-SA-3.0

Equally uplifting is the Beating Retreat Ceremony held at the sprawling Vijay Chowk three days after the Republic Day. It marks the end of the Republic Day celebrations. It is a beautiful ceremony that starts in the late afternoon and ends at dusk. Military bands play martial tunes and other compositions with such energy that they echo in your mind long after the event is over. The ceremony ends with the magnificent buildings on Raisina Hills being lit up just when the sun is about to set. A truly magical and memorable way to draw curtains on the Republic Day festivities.