Kashmir Kaleidoscope

Kashmir is indeed blessed with abundant natural beauty. I was mesmerized by its sights when I toured the state recently. While visiting any new place, apart from the usual sightseeing, I also enjoy looking at the local people and their way of life. Here are some glimpses that I managed to catch during my short exposure to their life.

No matter how breathtakingly beautiful the surroundings are, when you see it everyday, it is just a routine sight. Oblivious of the scenic view, these shikarawallahs prefer to just sit back or take a nap when there are no customers to attend to. At Nagin Lake in Srinagar.

When you drive around Pahalgam in the mornings or evenings, you come across flocks of sheep going for or returning from grazing in the fields. Cars and buses often have to stop to make way for the flocks that are generally huge. Pahalgam is traditionally a shepherds' village. At Aru Valley, Pahalgam.

Children carry lambs or goat kids and offer them to you so that you may hold them and get your photo taken with your own camera. All for a few rupees. At Chandanwari, Pahalgam.

When tourists play and frolic in the snow, it is business as usual for horses and their minders. The more customers they get, the merrier. At Chandanwari, Pahalgam.

While the snow-capped mountains are a feast for the eyes, a treat for your taste buds is at hand too. It sure takes a lot of efforts to transport and assemble all these items in this remote place. At Chandanwari, Pahalgam.

The decorated shikaras are for the tourists. The locals use these simple boats for their errands. At Dal Lake, Srinagar.

Boxes full of mouthwatering cherries are irresistible! In Gulmarg.

Schoolgirls about to enjoy an ice cream. In Gulmarg.

Another group of schoolgirls playing in the fresh and cool waters of a stream. They were splashing in the water, throwing water at each other and screaming at the top of their voices. In Tangmarg.

Another day. Another schoolgirl on her way to school against the backdrop of a basket shop. Photo taken from my bus somewhere on the way from Srinagar to Sonamarg.

Guides, drivers and helpers on a wet and cold day trying to get some business. At Bajri Nala, Sonamarg.

This colourful fruit stall was looking quite out of place and somewhat loud in the serene locale. At Fish Tank, Sonamarg.

It looked like a day out for children. The place was full of tourists as well as locals picnicking and having fun. At Fish Tank, Sonamarg.

And wherever there are crowds, there are salespersons peddling the local handicraft. A man enticing a tourist with an embroidered piece of dress material for ladies. The embroidery is bright, eye-catching and exquisite. At Fish Tank, Sonamarg.

Most women touring Kashmir give in to the persuasion of these people who offer to dress you up in glitzy Kashmiri costumes and take your photograph in them. They are ubiquitous, looking for business in all major tourist attractions. Once the deal is done, the pictures are taken and delivered in super quick time, almost instantly. At Nishat Bagh, Srinagar.

I took this picture from a moving car. Sunset at the Dal Lake in Srinagar.

Pongal for Brunch!

If you live in Tamil Nadu, you can't stay away from pongal. You don't need to! It is one of the most popular breakfast items, usually served with coconut chutney and sambar. Often a vada is thrown in to make it an irresistible combo...the soft pongal contrasted with the crisp vada. You can alternate between the two, giving your taste buds a rollicking time. Both are spicy, peppered with whole black peppercorns. Ginger and green chillies lend extra zest to them.

At home, we like to have pongal for brunch. It is a wholesome meal. My favourite accompaniments are a crisp roasted papad and a bowl of plain home-made curd. I am happy to share my recipe here. No claims of authenticity, though! I am sure every family has its own recipe with some variations. The ingredients are:

1 cup rice
1/2 cup yellow moong daal
Finely chopped or grated ginger(1-2 teaspoons)
Curry leaves (15-20)
Green chillies (2-3)
Roasted, coarsely ground cumin seeds(1/2 teaspoon)
Whole peppercorns (20-25)
Cashew nuts(10-12)
Ghee(1 tablespoon)
A pinch of asafoetida(hing)
Turmeric Powder(1/4 teaspoon)
Salt

Wash the rice and daal together and drain them nicely. Take ghee in a pan and fry the cashew nuts lightly in it. Keep them aside. Now put some hing,curry leaves, green chillies, peppercorns, finely chopped ginger and turmeric powder in the same ghee and add the washed rice-daal mixture to it. Roast it lightly. Add salt and coarsely ground cumin seeds. Transfer the contents to a pot which goes in your pressure cooker. Add 6 to 7 cups of water to the contents. Cook this in the pressure cooker as you normally cook khichadi. When cooked, garnish it with the lightly fried cashew nuts.

Pongal is supposed to be very soft and mushy. That is why the rice daal mixture:water ratio is 1:4 or 1:5. Enjoy it with your favourite accompaniments!

"Jal" Does Not Hold Water!

Alert:This write-up contains some spoilers.

Excellent cinematography is surely an asset for a feature film, but it cannot be the film's unique selling point. The makers of "Jal" seem to think otherwise. Their offering is a visual extravaganza, capturing the Rann of Kutch in all its arid glory, while faltering in many other crucial departments. It is hard to put this film in any genre. It gives the impression of being an arty, experimental film. It is anything but that! In spite of having been woven around a fresh, untapped idea, it has ended up being a potpourri of several elements. Greed, deceit, enmity, selfishness, despair, violence, love, lust, humour, music, dance...you name it, and you will find it in the story. The cause of the migratory flamingos is thrown in for good measure too.

The village where most of the action takes place is a mere patch of few ramshackle huts in the middle of nowhere. The inhabitants (all men in dusty off-white and all women covered from head to toe in black cloaks) seem to be doing nothing for a living. They are always outdoors, in groups, practising community living. Where do they do their morning ablutions, where do they get their food from in this barren, uninhabited land are questions best not asked. Instead, see how beautiful the women are in their exquisite ethnic jewellery with designer tattoos on their face, neck and arms. Men too look dashing in their co-ordinated Kutchi outfits. Wait, there is more eye candy. The gori ornithologist (Saidah Jules), saviour of the dying flamingos. She roams around the desert in sleeveless tops and shorts, providing the much needed colour and glamour in the monotonous landscape.

In this setting lives Bakka, our hero whose claim to fame is his extra-ordinary ability to locate water in the sandy expanse around him. The moment he finds a spot, he starts digging. Why fellow villagers don't help him is a mystery. Then there is a comparatively more prosperous dushman gaon, a love triangle involving Bakka, Kesar and Kajri, some good guys, some bad guys, flamingos, drilling machines, camels and water. You get the drift, don't you?

Talking about the actors, Tannishtha Chatterji as Kajri, the spurned lover is very impressive. Wish she had more to do. Kirti Kulhari as Kesar, the belle from the dushman gaon is attractive and adequate. Purab Kohli as Bakka is so swathed under a large turban or long, curly locks of hair that it is difficult to read his expression most of the time. And then there are the accents. It is obvious that not enough work was done on them. Else how does one explain Mukul Dev as Puniya speaking with a Haryanvi accent?

With a taut screenplay and better editing, the story would have been more effective. At times, the plot seems to lose focus and go haywire. What captivates you are the stunning landscapes and the strains of Shubha Mudgal's magical voice in the background. The skies, the clouds, the sun, the sands and the scattered salt glistening like snow look breathtaking.

Singer Sonu Nigam and percussionist Bickram Ghosh have tried their hand at composing for the first time here. They have come up with an interesting mix of Indian and international sounds with a stress on the use of percussion.

This also happens to be director Girish Malik's debut venture. He has shown the courage to come up with an unusual subject. If we take some of the stumbling blocks in this film as teething trouble, maybe we can hope for a better fare from him the next time. 

Queens Of The Silver Screen

It is very easy to see that both "English Vinglish" (my take on it here) and "Queen", released about 17 months apart, are stories of an individual's coming-of-age. Both the films not only did well, but they also managed to strike a chord with the viewers. The fact that protagonists in them happen to be charming, lovable, family-oriented women adds to their appeal.

One is set in Pune, the other in Rajouri Garden, Delhi. One features a docile, duty-bound homemaker who is a loving wife, doting mother of two and a caring daughter-in-law. The other portrays an obedient young woman living a sheltered life with her over-protective family. When circumstances throw them out of their insulated existence (to foreign shores, in both cases), they discover a side of themselves that they didn't know existed. They become new, improved versions of their old selves.

One marked the comeback of yesteryear star Sridevi with a big bang, while the other catapulted young Kangana Ranaut to new heights. Both films are obviously women-centric where men are made to take a back seat. If Shashi in "English Vinglish" rediscovers herself during a trip to the USA, Rani in "Queen" learns to believe in herself while she is finding her feet in Paris and Amsterdam.

Both the stories have been told well and so one can connect with them easily. Interestingly, food makes a delightful appearance in the two films. Shashi is not only a good cook, but she also supplies high quality sweets and snacks at weddings. Rani is the daughter of a prosperous sweet shop owner, loves cooking and takes lessons in the culinary art in Home Science classes in her college.  Elaborate shots of food --both Indian and Continental--make for lovely visuals in both the films.

With so many similarities, what made "Queen" click with the audiences that had appreciated "English Vinglish" earlier? Perhaps the dissimilarities between them worked in its favour? The age of the protagonist, her marital status, circumstances and the kind of things she is exposed to during her journey are markedly different in both the films. While the older leading lady stays within the comfortable environs of her sister's house and comes across mostly "feel good" situations, her younger counterpart faces the rough and tumble of life in an alien atmosphere almost single-handedly. Perhaps the difference in settings and their treatment is the key!

Maybe there is room for a third story where the metamorphosis takes place in India itself! It sure will be interesting to see that. But before that, it is time to stop this rambling!

The CEO's Family Celebrates!

The newly appointed Microsoft CEO Satya Nadella's parents refused to entertain any questions from the media. You may read about it here. But it is a different story with Satbir Narela's folks. Read about it here:

 

New Delhi: The newly appointed Microsoft CEO Satbir "Sat" Narela's parents are ecstatic. When this reporter went looking for the residence of Sat's parents in an upmarket neighbourhood in Delhi, she could feel the hustle and bustle almost half a kilometre before she arrived at the sprawling bungalow. The area wore a festive look, with colourful balloons and festoons fluttering in the mild breeze.

A large shamiana had been erected in the lawns of the mansion. At the entrance, some people were dancing to the beats of a dholak. When they realized that this reporter was from a reputed daily with a photographer in tow, they made way for the duo immediately.

Inside, floral garlands hung from the balconies, doors and windows of the house. Electricians were busy hanging series of coloured bulbs to be lit at dusk. Kids in their party clothes were running around, ladies in their finery sat occupying the plastic chairs that had been rented from a local tent house for the day, while men stood here and there in small groups. Some were talking to one another, but most men and women were busy sending messages or chatting to others on their cell phones.

It wasn't difficult figuring out who Sat's parents were. They sat on two decorated chairs, the kind used for the bride and the groom at wedding receptions. As soon as visitors entered the shamiana, they walked up to the couple to congratulate them on their son's success. The couple sat on their thrones beaming, hugging their guests first and putting a laddoo in their mouths later.

This reporter was greeted in the same fashion by Sat's mother. When the formidable matriarch learnt about the purpose of the news team's visit, she informed her husband, whispering aji sunte ho in his ear. He got up from his chair, welcoming this scribe affectionately. He began rattling off his son's achievements right from the kindergarten. He then called out to Ramu Kaka who had been with the family for decades asking him to also get the driver, the cook, the gardener and other help from the house. Soon, so much was being told about the prodigal son that this reporter had a tough time keeping pace with the details.  Everybody wanted to pose for pictures and the photographer went on a clicking spree, capturing different groups in his frame.

When this activity reached a frenzy, the duo could not take it anymore and decided to leave the venue. On their way out, they paused to talk to some guests. Almost everybody they talked to, claimed to be a cousin, friend or teacher of Sat and were eager to tell how close they were to him.

Even the balloonwala outside the gate was not to be left behind. He said he used to bring a balloon for baby Sat every evening!

This is a satire and please take it in that spirit. I do not mean any offence to any community.

Magnificent Maheshwar

The majestic fort and temple complex stands elegantly by the banks of the genteel Narmada. The structure is massive, and in very good shape belying its almost three-century-old existence. The steps leading from the ghats to the fort complex look imposing and stately. We are on a boat sailing along the Narmada in Maheshwar.

The drive from Indore has been comfortable, taking 90-100 minutes for the 91-kilometer run on a cool sunny morning in late January. The fields on both sides of the road are lush green, alive with cotton, wheat and sugarcane crops. The roadside shops in villages are filled with farm-fresh juicy red carrots, huge white cauliflowers and bright green peas.

Once in Maheshwar, the fort is the obvious destination. The 18th century structure exudes beauty, and charms you with its simplicity. Nothing is over the top here. The carvings, walls and domes in the complex showcase a grandeur that is subtle, understated. Perhaps they reflect the demeanour of the woman who ruled Malwa from these precincts from 1767 to 1795.

 

Devi Ahilyabai Holkar (1725-1795) was clearly way ahead of her times. Married into the ruling family of Indore, she took the reins of the state in her hands after her husband, father-in-law and son passed away. Her father-in-law, Malhar Rao was a visionary who dissuaded her from committing sati after her husband's untimely death, and trained her in administrative and military matters. She moved the capital from Indore to Maheshwar--an ancient city that finds mention in the Ramayana and the Mahabharata--and ran her kingdom efficiently, justly and courageously. An ardent devotee of Shiva, she built many temples and dharmashalas (guest houses for pilgrims) in several places. The present day Maheshwar owes its development to her.

The Rajwada (Royal Residence) is built around a central courtyard having partially covered wide corridors on all sides. These lead into rooms. Today, these corridors give us an idea of what life must have been like in the days of yore. There is a life-sized statue of Ahilyabai seated at the head of one of the corridors. The floor is covered with comfortable mattresses under clean white sheets. Maybe Ahilyabai gave an audience to her subjects here. She is known to have had regular public meetings during her rule. Her palki (palanquin) and some arms are also on display. Another beautiful sculpture stands tall just outside the building.

The fort overlooks the river Narmada. There is a point on the topmost part of the fort from where one can get a lovely view of the river flowing gently below. The colourful boats bobbing up and down the water, people worshipping the holy river and pilgrims bathing on its ghats add their own charm to the view. The fort houses the large Rajarajeshwar Temple. Its dome dominates the skyline. There are several temples in the town. Prominent among them are the Sahastrarjun Mandir, Kashi Vishwanath Mandir, Chaturbhuj Narayan Mandir, Chintamani Ganapati Mandir, Ram and Krishna Mandir, Bhavani Mata Mandir and Khedapati Hanuman.

Photos by Lata

Maheshwar is known for its superfine silk/cotton sarees. Adorned with distinctive borders, they look very classy. They are produced by local weavers on hand-operated looms. It was Ahilyabai who had sown the seeds of this cottage industry with a view to provide means of livelihood to her people. Once flourishing, it had begun to disintegrate with time. It was revived by Richard Holkar, a scion of the erstwhile ruling family. This industry now functions under REHWA Society, giving employment to many women. There is a small unit in the fort where one can see looms in operation, and fabric and sarees being produced by weavers. They are kept for sale in an adjacent shop. They are sold in other parts of the town too. Madhya Pradesh State emporia all over the country stock and sell these beautiful Maheshwari sarees.

Situated at a short distance from Indore - the industrial capital of Madhya Pradesh - Maheshwar makes for a good getaway either for just a day trip or for a relaxed stay over a few days. The state government runs a hotel, and there are some private hotels too. The fort houses a heritage hotel called Ahilya Fort. One can find five-star comfort in an ethnic setting here. As for us, we returned to Indore the same evening, drinking freshly squeezed sugarcane juice for the road. Laced with ginger and lemon, it was the sweetest, most delicious and refreshing drink I have had in a long time.

Kanchipuram In A Day

The temple town of Kanchipuram, well-known all over the world for its famed silk sarees, is located just about 75 kilometres from Chennai. Connoisseurs of temple architecture can spend days admiring the astonishing display of sculpture and art in the ancient temples. Or one can just make a day trip to get a glimpse of our heritage and history, scattered all over the town in the form of temples big and small. We did the latter.

Our first stop was the sprawling Ekambareswarar Temple Complex. Read more about the temple here. This has been in existence since at least 600 AD. That makes it one of the most ancient temples in South India. The main hall with pillars is very impressive. As is the practice in this part of the world, it gets darker and darker when you get closer to the sanctum sanctorum. The deity is visible for just a few seconds in the dim light of the lamp held by one of the priests and then you move on.

The outer pavilion is lined with a galaxy of deities. This magnificent Ganesha in black stone is one of them.

All Shiva temples in South India have a pond outside. This beautiful pond adds a lot of charm to the Ekambareswarar Temple.

And this is the Nandi, mandatory for any Shiva temple.

 

This imposing Gopuram can be seen from a distance. With these pictures, I first took you inside the temple, and then brought you out, looking at the surroundings. Next stop, Kailasanathar Temple. More about it here.

 

This is more open, having lovely green patches of lawn outside. Some parts of it have been restored over time and they look different. But it is still very beautiful, representing Dravidian architecture in great style.

A restored panel at the Kailasanathar Temple.

Some views of the temple. All the walls are crammed with sculptures depicting humans and animals.

There are many such unusual forms, lining the boundary walls of the temple.

This is one of my favourite pictures. The Nandi in subdued colour in the foreground with women in bright sarees in the background. I did not actually plan this, but I am happy that it has come out this way.

Our third stop, the Sri Kanchi Kamakshi Ambal Temple. More about it here.

There was this painted elephant at the entrance, blessing people. It provided the visitors with some excitement and entertainment, and its owner with some income in the form of the money that was offered to it.

Offerings to the Goddess, available at the entrance.

Many devotees were carrying heavy garlands entirely made with lotuses for the Goddess. I had never seen lotus garlands before this. Pretty, aren't they?

Fourth stop, the Varadaraja Perumal Temple. Read about it here. The presiding deity here is Vishnu. But unfortunately we could not enter the premises as the temple had closed for the afternoon. All temples in South India remain shut for four to five hours in the afternoon. So, one should start as early in the morning as possible from Chennai to make the most of the visit.

A close view of the same.

I had to be content taking pictures from the outside. Entry had closed. Only those who had entered earlier were still inside.

These old houses lining the street leading to the temple looked very interesting. Children enjoyed a game of cricket while adults were probably taking a nap inside.

Pictures by Lata

And last, but not the least...a saree shop! There are large showrooms offering silk sarees in the main part of the town. But all over the town, one can see such small shops--some of them operating from houses--selling sarees. I got one for myself too!