Alluring Andaman: Lights And Sounds Tell The Story!

The Light and Sound Show at the Cellular Jail is a must-watch for every visitor. Hordes of people descend at the jail to witness the show every evening. Four or five shows take place daily to accommodate the large number of tourists. The ticket costs Rs. 150 per person.

We arrive for our show early and find that many people have done the same. The park outside the jail is an ideal place to spend time in when you are waiting for your show.

The stage is set for the Light and Sound Show!

Soon, the previous show is over. We enter the jail compound and take our seats. It is a full house. The show begins with a recital of Jana Gana Mana. It is very thrilling to listen to the strains of the familiar tune, standing here in these hallowed premises. For the next one hour, as accounts of inhuman treatment of inmates emerge during the narration, people sit spellbound with a lump in their throat and tears in their eyes.

The inmates were subjected to physical and mental torture in order to break their resolve of fighting for India's freedom. They were routinely employed in kolhu machines in place of bullocks, to extract oil from coconuts. If they failed to extract their quota, they were subjected to severe punishments like flogging, starving, or being asked to perform more difficult tasks. They were already weighed down by solitary confinement, separation from their homes and families, exile in a remote island, uncertain future, humid weather, insects, bug-infested food, and harsh conditions. What kept them going was their dream to see India achieve independence.

The show tells their story with words, music and lights. One cannot help being sad, as well as proud of the sacrifices these extraordinary  people made to set our country free from the British rule. The show gets over, and we leave the jail compound with deep gratitude for all the inmates who lived and died in this jail.

View at arrival in Havelock

The rest of our trip was filled with touristy activities, like watching the sunset at the lovely Wandoor Beach, taking the hour-long cruise to Havelock, visiting the beautiful Radhanagar Beach with its pristine white sands and bright blue waters, 20-minute speedboat ride to the Elephant Beach, and looking at exquisite corals from a glass-bottom boat.

Photos by Lata

All the outings were very enjoyable indeed, but the high point of the trip for me will always be the visit to the Cellular Jail, and the Light and Sound Show!

Read the first post in this series here and the second post here.

Alluring Andaman: Inside The Cellular Jail

At the entrance, there are two chambers on either side of the gate where pictures and other memorabilia are on display. Further ahead, two flames burn continuously in memory of the inmates. An ancient peepal tree which has been standing there since the jail's heyday, greets visitors with a gentle rustle of its leaves and comforting shade.

We make way to the central tower. The seven arms are long and imposing. Inside the tower, lists of prisoners' names adorn the walls. We walk along to check out the cells. They are under renovation. The plaster on their walls has been scraped off revealing the bricks inside. All the cells are identical, with just a tiny window for ventilation.

Veer Savarkar, who spent 10 years in this prison from 1911 to 1921, occupied a cell on the top floor at the end of the corridor. We walk up to his cell. The whitewashed walls are bare, except for some pictures of the cell's celebrated inmate. Savarkar composed his epic poem "Kamala" by scribbling it on the walls of his cell.

We walk up the tower to the terrace and are treated to a beautiful view of the sea. The lovely Ross island sits just across like a green jewel in the shimmering blue waters. What a contrast from the suffocating cells to this heavenly spectacle under the open sky!

Befitting its status as a national memorial,  the premises of the prison are very clean and well-maintained. The historical importance attached to this place and the chilling stories of the harsh conditions in which prisoners were kept here, make it an awe-inspiring monument.

Photos by Lata

Downstairs, in one of the common areas between two arms of the prison, some models are on display depicting the harsh punishments meted out to prisoners. Just a short distance away are the gallows where three people could be hanged at once. As we approach, a young man is busy taking pictures of his blushing wife against the backdrop of the three nooses.

Right next to the gallows is the prison kitchen. Isn't it quite paradoxical that the place where the prisoners were terminated is beside the place that kept them alive?

Read the previous post in this series here.

To be continued.

Alluring Andaman: Hello Port Blair!

As we begin our descent into Port Blair, the emerald-green mass starts looking more animated with streets, buildings, and vehicles. For some reason, blue seems to be the popular colour for rooftops, punctuating the dense vegetation with blue rectangles of different sizes. Soon, the aircraft aligns itself over the landing strip in preparation for landing. The touchdown is gentle, followed by gliding on the runway before coming to a complete stop. It is a sunny morning outside with temperature at 28 degrees.

Veer Savarkar's bust at the airport

The long-awaited trip to the Andamans has finally materialised. I am excited to be here in Port Blair! We get out of the aircraft and take the bus to the terminal. The Veer Savarkar International Airport operates out of only one terminal. A new terminal is under construction and will be ready later this year. International operations are also slated to start later. 

Most of those who have arrived are tourists, eager to explore the islands that have become a popular tourist destination. There is one celebrity amongst passengers in our flight: actor Rahul Bose. Later we came to know that he was in Port Blair to take part in the Andaman Marathon of which he is the brand ambassador. 

The Union Territory of Andaman and Nicobar comprises 572 islands scattered at the juncture of the Bay of Bengal and the Andaman Sea, of which only about 38 are permanently inhabited. Port Blair is the biggest city and the capital.

We collect our bags and come out of the terminal to meet our escort. He receives us warmly and takes us to our hotel which is just a short ride away. The check-in is smooth and the rooms are clean and comfortable. The escort asks us to rest for a while and be ready at 13:30 to go to the Cellular Jail. That's when it opens after a break. All that I have heard and read about the historic jail comes to my mind, and I am eager to see it.

Known as Kaala Paani during the British rule, the Cellular Jail is an important national memorial monument. It was constructed by the British to keep political prisoners and revolutionaries who were active during India's struggle for independence, in exile. Construction started in 1896 and went on for 10 years. The prison was ready in 1906 for independence activists to be kept in isolation. It was designed especially for this purpose, consisting of a central watch tower from which emerge seven radial arms in such a way that the back of one arm faces the front of the next, ensuring solitary confinement for each of the inmates.  Each arm has three-storeys, containing cells running along the length of the arm. Each cell opens out into a common corridor. There are 696 cells. 

Photos by Lata

Some of the most well-known inmates of the prison are  Batukeshwar Dutt, Vinayak Damodar Savarkar, his elder brother Babarao Savarkar, Yogendra Shukla, Bhai Parmanand, Sachindra Nath Sanyal, Sohan Singh, and Subodh Roy amongst many others.

We are on our way to the prison. The road is wide, nice and clean. The vegetation and weather makes the place feel somewhat like Goa and Kerala, but still it is different. Hindi and Bangla are the most commonly spoken languages. Soon, the front facade of the jail comes into view. Part of it is covered because of the ongoing renovation.

Our escort gets the entrance tickets (Rs. 30 each), and we are ready to set foot inside the once-dreaded prison where many lived and died for India's freedom.

To be continued.

Panga: The Comeback!

It is hard to put the recently released film "Panga" in the frame of a particular genre. Is it a slice of life film, or a sports drama, or a family entertainer, or something else? Perhaps a bit of all of these. The story is about a person following his/her passion. That the person happens to be a woman, and the passion happens to be kabaddi is incidental.

Well, our leading lady Jaya Nigam is a happily married woman with a loving husband and a smart 7-year-old son. She has a cosy home, and her life is centred around her husband, her son, and her job as a ticket seller at the railway booking window. She had been a promising kabaddi player with trophies and national/international recognition to her credit, but she quit her game after marriage and motherhood. Sounds familiar? So many of married women can identify with her, having left some such thing behind after matrimony.

Unlike many who left their passion behind for good, Jaya decides to get back into the game. Finding her physical form, and overcoming her guilt for neglecting her household duties as a wife and a mother are her biggest obstacles. Everything else is picture perfect: a very supportive and understanding husband, an encouraging son (too mature to be 7?), a good coach who happens to be a dear friend, co-operating colleagues, helpful neighbours and what not. She could have had parents or in-laws who were ill and needed her help, she could have faced discrimination at work for being a woman, or she could have had a husband who was not so caring. But no, none of that. She is free as a bird to leave her nest and find ways to realise her dreams.

Even then, there are difficulties, ups and downs and emotional conflicts. Kangana Ranaut has played her part with sensitivity and energy. She switches between a vulnerable mother and wife, and an ambitious sportswoman with ease. The story is set in Bhopal and it is refreshing to see unexplored locales. Jassi Gill as the husband, Richa Chadda as Jaya's friend and coach, Yagya Bhasin as the son have all done very well. Richa Chadda is particularly impressive as the spunky single woman who has stayed away from marriage for her sport. Neena Gupta as Jaya's mother has nothing much to do. She manages to stay on the outlines with a character that has not been crafted well, having no chemistry with Kangana Ranaut as a mother would have with her daughter. To have someone of her calibre for this role is a complete waste.

Director Ashwiny Iyer Tiwari has tried and succeeded to a large extent in capturing the life of a young couple in present times, complete with their struggles and their challenges. Her offering has most of the ingredients to make it a wholesome dish, but perhaps somewhere along the way, a bit of tang could have helped? That would have elevated the film to a whole new level, although it is clean, honest and good now.

Watching Tanhaji: The Unsung Warrior

We have heard the story of Tanhaji (I would have spelt it as Tanaaji, but the recent film showcasing the valour of this 17th-century hero calls him Tanhaji, so I will go with that version since this is all about the film) from our mothers and grandmothers in our childhood. The story formed a part of the saga of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, the super hero who had the vision to dream of Swarajya, and who fought relentlessly throughout his life to realise it.

In Tanhaji: The Unsung Warrior (TTUW), the focus is obviously on this brave military leader, while the Chhatrapati makes a dignified appearance on the sidelines. The film opens with all kinds of disclaimers that are the norm today. The story has been dramatised, and creative liberties taken to enhance its appeal. Here's how the story goes. Tanhaji offers his services in leading the operation to reclaim Kondhana fort, which the Chhatarpati had lost to the Mughals in a peace treaty. His son's wedding can wait, aadhi lagna kondhanyache (let's get Kondhana married first); declares Tanhaji, and embarks on his mission. Scaling the heights of Kondhana is no mean feat. Especially when the fight is against the mighty and menacing Udaybhan Singh Rathore, who is defending the fort on behalf of Emperor Aurangzeb. The Mughal ruler had plans to make the strategic fort the centre of his operations in the South. After a fierce battle, Tanhaji wins the fort for his master but loses his life, eliciting the famous line from the Chhatrapati, gad aala pan sinha gela (we got the fort, but lost the lion). Eventually, Kondhana came to be known as Sinhagad.

Ajay Devgn plays the protagonist convincingly. Action is his forte and he delivers superbly. He is brawn, and brain too. His devotion to the Chhatrapati, and love for his family show his sensitive side. Kajol has a small, supporting role as Savitri, Tanhaji's wife.

Saif Ali Khan portrays the colourful and eccentric Udaybhan to the hilt. He gorges on crocodile meat roasted on a skewer, has no qualms about pushing a guard off the parapet of the fort into the depths of wilderness as a punishment for minor non-conformance, and dances like a madman anticipating a union with his childhood sweetheart Kamal.

Both of them are veteran actors, and that they did well is no surprise. The real surprise package comes in the form of Sharad Kelkar who essays the role of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. It is not easy to bring to life a legendary personality like him, but the actor has done it in a nuanced way, lending a lot of grace and character to his portrayal. It was so easy to get carried away and overdo his part, but full credit to him and to director Om Raut for not crossing the line.

I watched the film in a hall, in 3D format. While the closeup shots looked good, the long shots looked terrible, reducing the humans and animals to miniature characters. It was pathetic to see a majestic army appear as a toy army with baby elephants and pocket-sized soldiers. While the film switched the long shots and closeups effortlessly, it was a strain to get used to the changing proportions. Also, the lighting did not seem to be appropriate, making the visuals look dull in many shots. I wonder how these lapses occurred in the age of technical excellence. Although the use of computer generated graphics in this genre of films is a given these days, I felt it has taken something away from the production, lending it a bit of artificiality.

However, when the subject matter is strong, making a film which lives up to its demands is challenging for a filmmaker; and the film has done well on this count. It is inspiring, engaging and entertaining all at the same time!

छोटे पर्दे पर बड़े ख़्वाब!

हाल ही में "कौन बनेगा करोड़पति" (केबीसी) में हिस्सा लेनेवाली दो प्रतियोगियों ने बहुत प्रभावित किया. संयोग की बात है कि दोनों महिलाएँ थीं. पहली, बबिता ताड़े महाराष्ट्र के अमरावती के निकट एक कस्बे अंजनगाँव सुर्जी से हैं. बहुत ही हँसमुख, सौम्य व्यक्तित्ववाली बबिता एक सरकारी स्कूल में ४५० विद्यार्थियों के लिए दोपहर का भोजन बनाती हैं. उनके पति उसी स्कूल में चपरासी हैं. एक ख़ानसामा की बेटी बबिता अपनी स्वादिष्ट खिचड़ी के लिए बच्चों में ख़ासी लोकप्रिय हैं. घर की ज़िम्मेदारी में हाथ बँटाने के लिए उन्हें अपनी स्नातकोत्तर शिक्षा अधूरी ही छोड़नी पड़ी, लेकिन चूँकि पढ़ाई-लिखाई में उनकी दिलचस्पी है, जैसे मौका मिलता है वैसे वह किताबें,अख़बार आदि पढ़ लेती हैं. सामान्य ज्ञान की इसी पूँजी के सहारे वह केबीसी में शामिल होने आई थीं.

वैसे तो अमिताभ बच्चन अपने सामने बैठे हर प्रतियोगी को सहज बनाने की पूरी कोशिश करते हैं, लेकिन फ़िर भी उनके जैसे महानायक का सामना करना आसान नहीं. बबिता न सिर्फ़ अपनी सादगी और शालीनता के साथ हॉट सीट पर टिकी रहीं, उन्होंने सारे सवालों के जवाब धैर्य और सूझबूझ के साथ दिए, और एक करोड़ रुपए जीत गईं.  एक करोड़ की रकम जीतने में सामान्य ज्ञान के साथ उनके संयत व्यवहार और सकारात्मक विचार का भी बहुत बड़ा योगदान रहा होगा. उन्होंने अपनी ज़िंदगी की मुश्किलों को बयान तो किया, लेकिन उनका रोना नहीं रोया.

कार्यक्रम के बीच अमिताभ बच्चन अक्सर पूछते हैं कि जीती हुई रकम का आप क्या करेंगे. बबिता की चाहत सिर्फ़ एक मोबाईल फ़ोन की थी. एक करोड़ जीतने के बाद जब बच्चन साहब ने उनसे कहा कि अब तो आपको काम करने की कोई ज़रुरत नहीं है, तो उनका जवाब था कि काम तो वह करती रहेंगी क्योंकि उन्हें अपने काम से प्यार है. निश्चय ही इस महिला ने एक करोड़ के साथ-साथ दर्शकों का मन भी जीत लिया होगा. न उनमें अपनी आर्थिक स्थिति को लेकर कोई हीन भावना दिखी, और न ही अपने काम को लेकर किसी कमतरी का अहसास. अपने काम के प्रति समर्पण की भावना और स्कूल के बच्चों के प्रति उनके स्नेह को देखकर दर्शकों को भी उनकी सकारात्मकता ने छू लिया.

माना कि इतने बड़े रियलिटी शो में शिरकत करने वालों को कैमरे के सामने पेश करने से पहले कई तरह की सूचनाएँ दी जाती होंगी, उनकी छवि को तराशा जाता होगा, और जनता के सामने प्रभावशाली तरीके से प्रस्तुत होने के लिए उन्हें कुछ गुर सिखाए जाते होंगे. बावजूद इसके बबिता की स्वाभाविक सादगी छुप न सकी. साथ ही अमिताभ बच्चन आज जिस मक़ाम पर हैं, वहाँ से उनका आम जनता के साथ उठना-बैठना, सभी प्रतियोगियों के साथ आदरपूर्ण और मित्रवत व्यवहार, हँसी-मज़ाक करना, और सुपरस्टार की छवि के बोझ से मुक्त होकर सबके साथ सामान्य आचरण करना आदि इस शो को महज प्रश्नोत्तरी का कार्यक्रम नहीं, आपसी संवाद को रेखांकित करती एक मानवीय गतिविधि बना देते है.

इसी सन्दर्भ में जिनका ज़िक्र किया जा सकता है ऐसी दूसरी महिला हैं रूमा देवी. यह विशेष कार्यक्रम कर्मवीर में अतिथि बनकर आई थीं. राजस्थान के बाड़मेर ज़िले की रहनेवाली रूमा देवी को हस्तकला के क्षेत्र में उत्कृष्ट काम करने के लिए इस वर्ष राष्ट्रपति ने "नारी शक्ति पुरस्कार" से नवाज़ा है. टीवी के पर्दे पर इनकी उपस्थिति बेहद दिलकश और ऊर्जावान थी. पारम्परिक राजस्थानी पोशाक में सजीं रूमा देवी ने खुलेपन और आत्मविश्वास के साथ अपनी कहानी सुनाई. वह महज आठवीं कक्षा तक स्कूल गईं. कम उम्र में शादी होने के बाद धन के अभाव में अपने छोटे बच्चे का इलाज नहीं करा पाईं और उसे खो दिया. घूँघट की प्रथा का आदर करते हुए उन्होंने अपनी दादी से सीखा हुआ कशीदाकारी का काम घर से ही शुरू किया और धीरे-धीरे अपने जैसी कई महिलाओं को अपने साथ जोड़कर उन्हें भी रोज़गार दिलाया. आज २२ हज़ार महिलाएँ उनके साथ कार्यरत हैं. उनके बनाए वस्त्र और अन्य सामान जैसे टेबल कवर, कुशन कवर आदि की भारत में और विदेश में भी बहुत माँग है. 

रूमा देवी ने अपने काम के सिलसिले में विदेश दौरे भी किए हैं, और व्यावसायिक मॉडेल्स के साथ फैशन शो में रैम्प वॉक भी. केबीसी के विशेष कार्यक्रम के दौरान वह लगातार मुस्कुरा रही थीं और बेबाकी से ठहाके भी लगा रही थीं. अतिथि के रूप में उनका साथ देने आई थीं अभिनेत्री सोनाक्षी सिन्हा. सोनाक्षी के ग्लैमर और चमक-दमक के सामने रूमा देवी कहीं भी कम नहीं लग रही थीं, बल्कि महज ३० वर्ष की उम्र में हासिल की उपलब्धियों की रोशनी में उनका आकर्षक व्यक्तित्व और भी निखर उठा था. उन्होंने १२ लाख ५० हज़ार की रकम जीती और उसे अपने साथ काम करती महिलाओं के उत्थान के लिए इस्तेमाल करने की इच्छा जताई.

गाँव की मिट्टी की खुशबू अपने साथ लेकर आईं बबिता और रूमा देवी की कहानियाँ प्रेरणादायी तो हैं ही, साथ ही यह दूर-दराज क्षेत्रों में बसे उन अनगिनत लोगों को सपने देखने की हिम्मत देती हैं जो अपनी मेहनत, कौशल और विश्वास के बूते पर अपने आपको साबित करने के लिए प्रयत्नरत हैं. 

यह लेख इन्दौर से प्रकाशित दैनिक "प्रजातंत्र" में आज २६ सितम्बर २०१९ के अंक में प्रकाशित हुआ है. 

Under The Bodhi Tree!

I was in Patna recently for a family event . This was my first ever visit to the city and I was keen on making a trip to Bodhgaya, the site of the Mahabodhi Temple and the sacred Bodhi Tree, where Prince Siddhartha attained enlightenment before being known as Gautam Buddha. It is one of the major pilgrimage destinations, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Fortunately there was a spare day, so we planned a trip.

We hired a car and set off towards the holy site in the morning. Various searches had shown the distance to be between 95 and 120 kilometres. The driver, a young and slender lad, was chatty and friendly. He asked us if we had any preference between the two routes available to reach Bodhgaya. We told him to choose the route where road conditions were better. He said, we'll take the Hilsa-Islampur route, as the other route was under repair, and hence not in a good condition. 

It was a warm day and we were passing through fields and villages, getting a glimpse of rural Bihar. The village markets were bustling with women buying fruits and vegetables from roadside shops. The driver said, they were preparing for the upcoming Teej festival. The narrow streets in the villages and the crowds in the markets slowed down our speed, and it took us almost four hours to reach Bodhgaya from the time we started from our hotel, much longer than what we had anticipated.

The Thai Monastery

Inside the Thai Monastery

Vehicles are not allowed, so we took a battery-operated rickshaw to visit the Mahabodhi Temple. Suddenly the landscape changed! The streets were lined with colourful Buddhist temples and monasteries on both sides. Bhutan, Japan, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and many other countries where followers of Buddhism live, have a presence here in the form of these lovely prayer houses. We stopped by two of them, one belonging to Bhutan, and the other to Thailand. Both had very ornate and elaborate decorations around the idol of Buddha, which was very placid and restful in stark contrast. Both the monasteries are lovely, quiet and well-kept.

I am told the township of Bodhgaya is served by Gaya airport, which is just five kilometres from the Mahabodhi Temple and about 12 kilometres from Gaya. It is a seasonal airport where special flights from Buddhist countries bring pilgrims to this important destination.

The Royal Bhutan Monastery

Inside the Royal Bhutan Monastery

Soon, we were at the Mahabodhi Temple. Mobile phones are not permitted inside the complex and one has to deposit them at the entrance. Cameras are allowed after paying a fee. But unfortunately I did not have one.

Outside the Mahabodhi Temple

The Temple is strikingly beautiful. There are two Shikhara towers, the taller of them crowned with a stupa-shaped structure, with finials adorning its top. The structures are covered with magnificent artwork, most of which is in a very good shape. I read somewhere that the material is brick covered by stucco, which is not so durable as stone. The structure that we see today has undergone several renovations over the centuries. The original temple is believed to have been built by Emperor Ashoka 200 years after Buddha's enlightenment, which in turn occurred around 2500 years ago. 

There is a small queue to enter, and the Buddha you see is bereft of any ornamentation or decoration, radiating peace with those compassionate eyes, and gentle lips with subtle hint of a smile. I spent some quiet moments and came out to find an arrow pointing to the Bodhi Tree.

It is a sprawling peepal tree at the back of the temple. It is said to be a direct descendant of the original tree. The trunk of the tree has been fenced by railings on all sides, around which there is a large platform. There was a big group of pilgrims dressed in white, all of them from Sri Lanka, sitting around the tree on the platform, reading and reciting something from booklets held in their hands. A group of monks dressed in saffron was circumambulating the tree and the temple in silence. It was a hot afternoon, but it felt as if the shade of the tree enveloped you in a comforting embrace. We sat down for a while. It was very peaceful, and it felt wonderful to be there among those pilgrims and monks. Occasionally, the leaves rustled with the breeze, and some of them came tumbling down, only to be picked up instantaneously by someone or the other. Our driver, who had accompanied us to the temple, was quick to grab one for me. I have saved it as a prized souvenir of the trip.

The temple is surrounded by green stretches of lawn dotted with beautiful small stupas. They offered excellent photo opportunities, but alas, my mobile was taken away and I had no camera! We walked in the complex, admiring the structures, visiting the lake, looking at rows and rows of burning lamps in a covered shed, taking in the hundreds and thousands of paper cups filled with flowers, placed on the ledges in perfect order by the pilgrims. It was all very tranquil, very blissful.

Photos by Lata

Before going back to our parked car, we made a stop at the Giant Buddha. It is a modern structure, consecrated in 1989. Made of sandstone blocks and red granite, it is perhaps the largest statue built in India. The 64 ft. tall figure depicts the Buddha meditating under the sky in open air. 

It is time to get back to Patna. Another four hours to get there. I am happy I got an opportunity to make it to Bodhgaya. A place steeped in history that still holds an appeal for us with its serenity and calm.