Second Act With Manisha Koirala!

I was at the Hindu Lit For Life (Hindu LFL) that concluded in Chennai recently. It is a big event and there are parallel sessions running in different spaces at any given time. So it is practically not possible for anybody to attend all sessions. One chooses what one wants and plans accordingly. I had decided on attending quite a few, and a session with Manisha Koirala was one of them. Titled "Second Act", it was to feature her in conversation with Dr. Sheela Nambiar, an obstetrician and gynaecologist by training who also practises Lifestyle Medicine. and is a fitness consultant. 

I remember Manisha as a beautiful and competent actress, having seen her performances in "1942: A Love Story" (1994), "Agni Sakshi" (1996),  Khamoshi: The Musical (1996) and some other films. Reports of her being struck by ovarian cancer emerged some time in 2012-2013. She put up a brave fight and emerged victorious after surgery and treatment in the USA. Her book "Healed: How Cancer Gave Me A New Life", published by Penguin India in 2018 tells the story of her battle with the dreaded disease. She was at the Hindu LFL to talk about this difficult chapter in her life.

She came on the stage dressed in a dark blue and white ensemble-- a mix of blouse/top and salwar/dhoti, her hair pulled back and tied in a severe bun. She smiled a lot and established an instant rapport not only with Dr. Nambiar, but also with the audience. She looked calm and at peace with herself in spite of the ravages of time and cancer on her lovely face.

She talked of her reckless lifestyle when she was at the peak of her career, and the resultant neglect of health. How she went into a denial mode after she learnt of her cancer, thinking all the time that perhaps the doctors had made a mistake, maybe the reports were wrong. Then the painful treatment and its aftermath. How her family, her mother in particular, provided solid support to her during those testing times. How thinking positively helped her overcome her disease. How important it is to be strong and optimistic even while going through unbearable pain. How this phase has taught her to take care of her body, to make the most of what life has to offer, to live.

Dr. Nambiar was understanding and supportive all along, allowing Manisha to be in her comfort zone. Manisha, on the other hand was frank and quite open. She said it was important to keep negativity and resentment at bay, and move on with one's life. She has understood the importance of giving, not just money; but time, love and care to others. She has emerged out of her ordeal as a better person, more compassionate, more loving, more giving. 

She has resumed work after recovery. She appeared in "Dear Maya" in 2017, then in a Netflix anthology "Lust Stories", and essayed the role of Nargis in Sanjay Dutt's biopic "Sanju" in 2018. She will continue working, but currently she is training for a trek to the Everest base camp that she plans to undertake with her friends.

The audience cheered her throughout the interaction. Reacting to a question she disclosed that the doctors had still not said that she was completely cured--I have told myself that I am cured now. When somebody asked if she thought of committing suicide at any point of time, she laughed and said, I had cancer already, why would I think of suicide. The 50-minute interaction was full of warmth, honesty and smiles. 

I am happy I sat in, it gave me a chance to see the person behind the larger-than-life image of a film actress. Somebody from the audience summed it up well when he got up and said to Manisha, "We heard all the other talks with our mind, but your talk has touched our hearts ma'am!" 

A Scrapbook Of Photos From Kolkata!

I had been waiting to enjoy jhalmuri in Kolkata, and when it appeared in front of me in such an attractive way, I was delighted. This mixture of puffed rice with a variety of ingredients was tangy and spicy. I asked the vendor to add a bit of almost everything from his basket to the serving he was making for me, other than the customary mustard oil. Purists may scoff at my omission of this dressing, but I am afraid, my palate simply cannot take it. On the way from Kolkata to Shantiniketan.

Hordes of people had descended on the headquarters of the Ramakrishna Math and Mission. Founded by Swami Vivekananda, the temple draws on Hindu, Christian, Islamic and Buddhist architectural styles as a symbol of unity. The sprawling campus looked very colourful and picturesque, with hundreds of seasonal flowers blooming in the gardens. In spite of the crowds, it was serene; the quiet Hooghly flowing nearby adding to its beauty. At the Belur Math.

Taking a well-deserved break in the middle of a busy day! Somewhere in the vicinity of the Marble Palace.

It is not yet five in the evening and the sun is ready to set soon! A boatman at work with people enjoying the ride in his boat. The Vidyasagar Setu looks grand and imposing. At the Prinsep Ghat.

This window looks so striking with its lovely contrast! At the Jorasanko Thakur Bari.

The blue door attracted my attention. The cycle added an interesting dimension. And the plants provided a touch of life to the frame. In Kumartuli.

The small temple makes everything around it so bright and cheerful! I could not resist taking a picture. In Kumartuli.

Kolkata was the first city to begin Metro rail operations in India in 1984. I took a ride and liked the experience. At Shyambazar Metro station.

The Rabindra Sarobar and its surroundings offer excellent recreational spots to people of all ages. The area is well-maintained and clean. A great place to be outdoors in the middle of a busy metropolis. View from the Calcutta Rowing Club.

A walk along the Rabindra Sarobar.

It was nice crossing the river from Babu Ghat to Howrah in this passenger boat. The ride costs Rs. 6 and lasts only a few minutes. Got treated to lovely views of the iconic Howrah Bridge from the boat.

It is difficult to get the bridge in a single frame. This is the best I could get!

As I alighted from the passenger boat and walked up the ramp, the Howrah station was just across the road.

Hand-pulled rickshaws continue to ply in Kolkata. In fact, they are one of the cultural icons of the city. Rehabilitation of rickshaw pullers and introduction of battery-operated modern vehicles is the need of the hour. At Shyambazar.

These windows are so typical of Kolkata! This is the scene in a lane on a lazy Sunday morning. In Shyambazar.

People living upstairs and small businesses downstairs. The beautiful balconies and drying clothes are so lively and colourful! The trees, shops and homes present a happy picture of co-existence. At Shyambazar.

Photos by Lata

This is where one normally exits the Victoria Memorial halls. The halls were bursting at their seams with crowds. They are impressive and loaded with information on Kolkata and its people. It was interesting reading about the beginnings of the city and how it came to be the bustling metropolis that it is today. Also, about all the distinguished personalities in various fields who contributed to the growth and glory of Kolkata. Being there was a humbling and enriching experience!

Read my posts on Jorasanko Thakur Bari and Kumartuli here.

Of Kumartuli, Clay And Divinity In Kolkata!

From Jorasanko Thakur Bari, I head towards Kumartuli in an auto rickshaw. It is a short distance away. The auto driver stops at the mouth of a lane off Rabindra Sarani and asks me to enter Kumartuli from that point. 

I have always been fascinated by pictures of clay idols of Durga in the making, and had made it a point to include Kumartuli in my Kolkata itinerary. I had read about this potters' colony in magazines and newspapers. It has also been featured in the Vidya Balan starrer "Kahaani" (2012). The stunning idols of Durga that people adore and venerate during Durga Puja are created in the lanes and bylanes of this modest neighbourhood. 

I have been wondering what I will get to see here in the month of December. Durga Puja got over just a couple of months ago and it is too early to start making Durga idols for the next year. I so want to see the potters in action! As I start walking in the lane flanked by small studios on both sides, to my utter delight I notice forms of Goddess Saraswati, complete with her veena and swan being shaped in clay. I realise they are being made for Saraswati Puja which is celebrated in Bengal on Vasant Panchami. I thank my luck for the good timing and set out to explore further. 

There are some men sitting outside what looks like a small shop, and just to make sure that I don't get lost in the labyrinthine alleys I ask them in Hindi --if I want to come back to this point should I ask for Rabindra Sarani? One of them replies enthusiastically--Didi, Rabindra Sarani nei, tram rasta bolben. I smile and thank him for this useful tip. Yes, this is a tram route alright. With buoyed confidence because of my small headway in local parlance, and eager anticipation I walk ahead.

Hundreds of potters and their families live and work in this congested area. The studios are rather small and a lot of unfinished work is lying outside in the lanes. The inner frame of the idol is made with straw, and several forms of the Goddess at this stage are just bodies of straw in different sizes. The idols that are in more advanced stages of making have the straw covered with clay. Saraswati--sitting with her customary poise, a veena resting in her lap and a graceful swan at her feet--is taking shape. Many of them are headless. But several of them are complete with a head too! The round face is adorned with exquisite fish-like eyes, and it looks radiant even in a raw state. Kudos to the nimble fingers of the artisans who create divinity with clay in these humble surroundings.

As I go deeper in the bylanes, I notice other figures too. There she is as Durga with multiple arms and perched on a tiger, while elsewhere, as Kali she is ferocious with her tongue sticking out, and Shiva at her feet. What stands out in all these is the beautiful expressive face. And perfect proportions. Nothing is out of place. Everything exists in a harmonious balance. I can only imagine how magnificent they will look when their faces are painted, and when their saree and jewellery are in place.

Photos by Lata

I am surprised to see how unobtrusive and welcoming the artisans are. They go about their work without questioning my presence in their midst. And I am not the only one. There is a young visitor taking pictures with a sophisticated camera. Then there is a foreigner with an Indian guide who is relating mythological stories about these figures to her. There is another guest who is watching a potter and singing to him as the latter is busy at work. Kumartuli is also a popular destination for organised walks.

In spite of the abysmal conditions, people are friendly and lively. Children playing in the lanes, elders sitting outside their homes soaking in the sun, and potters chatting with neighbours and fellow potters during a break. They have put me completely at ease with their disarming smiles and easy manner. Filled with admiration for their art and their spirited way of life, I walk back to the point from where I had started. It is not difficult and I make it to the place without having to ask for tram rasta!

At The Tagore House In Kolkata!

I am at the entrance to the Jorasanko Thakur Bari. It is marked by a red arch, opening out into the busy Rabindra Sarani. It is a pleasant winter morning in Kolkata. People are trickling in slowly. Outside, it is a chaotic and noisy road with cars, autos, carts and rickshaws struggling to find their way among the throngs of pedestrians and hawkers. Once you enter the arch and walk the short road to the gate of the imposing house, you are transported to a bygone era. In Kolkata for a brief trip, I have been looking forward to visiting Gurudev Rabindranath Tagore's house. Now at the doorstep, I am eager to see the place where he was born and where he breathed his last.

The elegant red house with a garden of trees and lush green lawns is like a tranquil oasis, amidst the cacophony of the world outside. Flowers of different hues add colour and charm to the garden. It is just the beginning of the day and there is no queue at the ticket booth. I buy my ticket for Rs. 20 which allows me entry into the house that contains the Rabindra Bharati Museum now. However, there is a separate ticket if one wishes to take pictures. I get it from the office for Rs. 50. This is good for taking pictures outside. Photography inside the museum is not permitted.

I walk around in the garden for some time and then make my way to the house. It  was built in the 18th century. It consists of large rooms that are well-lit and airy, with spacious verandas running along the length of the house. The high ceilings contribute to its grandeur. Tagore family comprised of affluent landlords and the house reflects the lifestyle of the rich in those days.

Footwear is not allowed inside the house so I leave mine in the passageway leading to the staircase. Upstairs, the chambers offer us a peek into the lives of the Nobel-laureate and his illustrious family. Many members of the family were proficient in some or other form of art. As a prolific painter, poet, writer, composer and dramatist, Gurudev was the embodiment of creativity in multiple disciplines.

The house has his robes neatly hung is glass cases on display. Some furniture, and his wife Mrinalini Devi's kitchen is also part of the display. Then there is a maternity room, used exclusively for deliveries in the family.  A detailed family tree of the Tagores is an interesting exhibit too. Photographs from his association with and visits to Japan and China occupy a large part of the galleries in the museum. Pictures from Shantiniketan where he is seen hosting eminent personalities are there too. Then there are several texts in Bengali script and a large number of reproductions of his paintings, neatly framed and hung across rooms and hallways. I regret not being able to read the script. Access to the second floor is closed so I miss seeing whatever is there.

Photos by Lata

Most of us are familiar with the images of Rabindranath wearing a long beard and flowing robes, but it is interesting to see pictures from his younger days in western clothes. He is tall, athletic, intense and aristocratic. One cannot help being overwhelmed with the sheer volume of his creative genius. Being at his ancestral home that nurtured his talent is nothing short of a pilgrimage!

What touches me most is the detailed account of his last days put up in neat frames in one of the verandas. These lines are poignant in particular:

When death comes and whispers to me 

"Thy days are numbered",

Let me say to him, "I have lived in love and not in mere time",

He will ask, "Will thy songs remain?"

I shall say, "I know not, but this I know

that often when I sang, I found my eternity."

-- Rabindranath Tagore