"The Last Supper" In London!

While reading, I come across a lot of fascinating material about "The Last Supper". Some stories, some facts, some theories and a few myths too. There has been speculation about the possibility of a hidden mathematical code or message in the painting. Some have also talked about a musical score embedded in it. Some believe that the person seated to the right of Jesus is actually Mary Magdalene, one of his followers who travelled with him and was present at his crucifixion, burial and resurrection. The upturned salt cellar in front of Judas is symbolic of betrayal. And instead of giving a halo to Jesus, Leonardo placed a window so as to provide the same effect.

The painting is supposed to contain references to the number 3 in keeping with the Christian belief in the Holy Trinity. The apostles are seated in groups of three. There are three windows. And the figure of Jesus is shaped like a triangle. 

As intriguing as all this is, the most relevant piece of information for me at this point of time is that an important copy of the original exists in London. I am going to be in London after Milan. This offers me an opportunity to check out Giampietrino's 16th century copy. It is on display at the Royal Academy of Arts in Central London. I visit the gallery on a pleasant day in the afternoon, less than a week after seeing the original in Milan.

The academy is a privately funded art institute based in Burlington House on Piccadilly. Established in 1768, it promotes visual arts through various activities. I walk through some halls and climb the grand staircase to go to the next level. One of the helpful staff members guides me to the section housing the copy. One has to go past a wall that acts as a partition and then the painting comes in full view. It is smaller than the original, about 119 in x 309 in, but still impressive in size.

Photos by Lata

Unlike the original, there is no time restriction here. One can spend as much time as one wishes to. In fact, there are comfortable sofas placed right in front of the painting for visitors who might want to gaze at the work seated comfortably. The room is well-lit. And the painting is much brighter than the original. The academy purchased this oil on canvas in 1821 from H. Fraville. The copy is very faithful to the original, but it lacks the 3-dimensional effect and depth to some extent because the top third part of Leonardo's composition is missing in it. Details like the tableware, food items, and the overturned salt cellar are visible more clearly. Also prominent are the feet of Jesus that were lost due to cutting of a door in the original.

There is a constant flow of visitors, but it is not crowded here. People rest on the plush sofas for a while and have a good look at the display. They take pictures, discuss the work with each other, and savour it from far and near. As for me,  I am happy I got a chance to see both, the original and the copy in a short span of time!

This post is the last in the three-part series on "The Last Supper". Read the first and the second part here.

An Up-Close Look At "The Last Supper!"

The next morning, I am at the ticket office at eight. There is just one lady ahead of me. She walks away soon. I wonder if she was there for cancelling or buying a ticket. As I walk to the window and request a ticket, the lady looks into her records and asks, is 3:30 in the afternoon okay? I say, yes. It is ten Euros without guide and 13.50 with an English-speaking guide, she says and waits for my answer. I choose the latter option. She swipes my card and hands over the receipt to me saying, be at the entrance ten minutes before your time. Soon I am out of the office thanking my stars.

I return to my hotel for breakfast. After breakfast, it is time to prepare for what I am going to see in the afternoon. Many interesting facts emerge while reading about the painting. It was the last decade of the 15th century. The main church building had been remodelled into a mausoleum for the ruling family of Milan. Ludovico Sforza, the Duke of Milan commissioned the painting as a centrepiece for the mausoleum, and Leonardo da Vinci began working on it in 1495. Later, the structure was used as a convent, and this particular chamber as its dining hall. 

The door that was cut into the painting made the feet of Jesus disaapper

It was customary to paint frescoes on wet plaster. It demanded the work to be completed quickly while the plaster was still wet. Leonardo did not wish to finish the work in a hurry and so he chose to paint on a dry wall. So this work is not exactly a fresco in reality. He coated the dry wall with a primer of white lead. This would increase the brightness of the oil and tempera that was to be applied later. Now Leonardo could afford to work slowly and achieve the desired effect of gradual shading in his painting.

It took him three years to complete the work. Within a few decades, the paint started flaking as it had not adhered properly to the dry wall. It has undergone several restorations since then. In 1652, a door was cut into the wall by the residents of the convent. It destroyed the lower part of the work in the centre, making the feet of Jesus disappear. Then, Napoleon's soldiers used the premises as a stable in the 18th century, causing further damage. The building was bombed in World War II, but the painting survived miraculously because of effective sandbagging. 

After going through such details, I make way for the convent with heightened curiosity and reach a good 30 minutes before my allotted slot. 20 minutes later, I join others in my group at the entrance. Our guide arrives. She is a middle-aged lady who speaks English with a heavy accent. She could be Italian or French. She leads us through a narrow corridor into a wider corridor. The narrow corridor is lined with informative displays. We walk along the longer and wider corridor that runs parallel to the chamber holding the masterpiece. We reach a closed door and are asked to wait there. We are to enter only after the previous group has left. After a brief wait, the door is opened to let us in.

We find ourselves entering through the centre of the longer arm of a rectangular room. It is a bit dark inside. The iconic painting occupies the wall that stands to our right. A small barricade separates it from the visitors. It is large, 180 in x 350 in to be precise. The colours are dull, but the painting is not lifeless. It speaks to you through the gestures and facial expressions of Jesus and his 12 apostles. The long table in front of them with its frugal spread, the windows in the background, the walls on either side and the ceiling exist in perfect symmetry giving the picture an uncanny 3-dimensional feel. I have my ears tuned to the guide's commentary and my eyes focused on the wonder in front of me.

The angelic face of Jesus is the pivot around which the whole scene is planned. It represents the few moments after Jesus tells his apostles that one of them is going to betray him before sunrise. This arouses anger, shock and rage in them and each of them reacts with a different gesture and expression. It is not possible to study each one in detail in the limited time window available, so it is a good idea to take in the picture in its entirety and interpret it later with the help of prints. Of course some homework before the visit helps immensely. And with no disrespect to the guide, if you have enough prior knowledge about the painting, the guide does not add much value to the viewing experience. 

Photos by Lata

Photography without flash is permitted. People pose in front of the painting and get their
pictures taken. The clock is ticking. The guide directs us to the wall opposite "The Last Supper" which is adorned with a fresco by Giovanni Donato da Montorfano on the crucifixion of Jesus. It is an intricate, elaborate and impressive work, dwarfed by the giant with which it shares this space.

A stern matronly lady who manages the traffic of visitors to this chamber indicates that our 15 minutes are over. The next batch is waiting outside the door. They will be let in only after we leave. The exit takes us to a small garden which opens outside, close to the entrance. There is a gift shop on the way for those who wish to buy memorabilia. 

To be continued

Read the first part here.

A Rendezous With "The Last Supper"!

We have seen depictions of the well-known "The Last Supper" umpteen times in books, magazines, posters, and elsewhere. Numerous artists have painted the scene that portrays the last meal shared by Jesus with his apostles in Jerusalem before he was crucified. It has been one of the most popular visuals in Christian art, and several painters have brought it alive using different media. Leonardo da Vinci's mural painting done in the late 1490s remains the most well-known example to date. It is housed by the refectory of the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan.

Recently when visiting Milan, I find to my pleasant surprise that our hotel is almost next door to the convent. I walk to it the next morning. The dome at the back of the building in red brick is impressive. Restoration work is on in the front facade and on the side wall. There is a mild drizzle. Not enough to deter visitors from standing in the front square to appreciate the structure that houses a church and a convent. I enter the church. It is calm and beautiful. A portly priest is performing a ritual with a group of people. Dressed in flowing white robes, he is a picture of love and compassion. I spend some quiet moments observing the ongoing ceremony. When it is over, people seek not only blessings from the priest; but also a picture with him. He obliges smiling in a grandfatherly way.

After admiring the interiors of the church leisurely, I walk out. The drizzle has stopped now.
The celebrated mural is in a chamber and one needs to buy a ticket to enter. Groups of only 25-30 people are allowed entry every 15 minutes.

I decide to give it a try next day. The next morning is bright and sunny. I arrive at the convent all eager and hopeful. To my utter disappointment, the lady at the ticket counter informs me that they are sold out for the next few weeks. Having come so close to the treasure and not being allowed a dekko is surely disheartening. I ask her, not even one person? She must have been used to such queries from hundreds of agitated tourists. She asks me to come at "eight tomorrow morning" and try. If there is a cancellation, I stand a chance. I decide to try my luck. I am staying only next door, and reaching this place at eight is not difficult at all.

I walk out of the ticket office and rest at the short boundary wall surrounding the convent. The convent is painted in yellow and there is a small garden with lush green lawns and a few trees inside the compound. A tall, narrow, red-coloured banner is placed vertically at the entrance to the convent. It says "Cenacolo Vinciano" in white letters. I see people who have been fortunate enough to get a ticket taking their turns to enter. Some of them have come with their own guides. There is a group of Chinese tourists. One of them holds a print of the mural aloft while a guide instructs them with a pointer on the intricacies of the painting. This is to help them make the most of their brief rendezvous with the maestro's work. I admire their sincere and scholarly approach towards appreciating a masterpiece.

Photos by Lata

The square is mostly quiet, with people sitting on the the few benches along the border. There is a single makeshift stall selling souvenirs. Occasionally one hears the church bells toll. And trams rattling frequently along the adjoining street, Corso Magenta.

I leave hoping for a fruitful visit the next day! 

To be continued

Ciao Lake Como And Bellagio!

We set off for Como on a Trenord train from Cadorna station in Milan. It is a pleasant Sunday morning and the train leaves at its scheduled time. Buying the ticket at the station is quick and easy. The train is not full. And there is an unhurried, holiday feel to the trip in the partially occupied compartment. With brief stops at some small stations, the train reaches its destination about 50 minutes after leaving Cadorna. As we step on the platform, the sight of the lake just across the road from the station greets us.

In a couple of minutes, we are at the lake. It is a huge lake with several twists and turns, lined by mountains on the sides. Little villages lie scattered on the slopes all along the lake. Small boats bob on the lake while large boats are busy ferrying tourists to the villages. The lower parts of mountains are green while the upper parts are blue, and many cliffs are hidden behind the low-lying clouds; giving the landscape a dreamy, fairy tale look.

We spend some time taking in the beautiful sights and then walk towards the ticket booth for buying our tickets to go to Bellagio on a large boat. There is a longish queue but thankfully it is moving fast. We board the boat soon. It is comfortable, with seating on several levels. Some decks are covered, some are partially covered and some are open.

We settle down in a partially covered portion of the top deck. The boat is filled with enthusiastic tourists of all ages. This is a slow boat servicing villages along the route. As it starts moving on its way, we are treated to picture postcard scenes one after the other. Villages are dotted with pretty houses and fancy resorts. All of them have been painted in colour co-ordinated shades of yellow, beige, red and pink. There are no loud banners, ugly advertisement boards or any other eyesores anywhere in sight in any of the villages. All that one sees is beauty in abundance everywhere. The boat progresses winding its way along the curves of the lake as we feast on the amazing views unfolding in front of our eyes.

Mountain tops kissing the feathery clouds, refreshingly clean waters of the lake, villages with tiny eateries, narrow roads, cars, houses, people sitting on benches on the lake front...everything is picture perfect. There are some big lake-facing hotels and some very exclusive villas. I am told well-known Hollywood stars own villas in these villages.

The two-hour ride comes to an end too soon and we wish there was more. As we alight from the boat the lovely town of Bellagio welcomes us with its restaurants, boutiques, and small shops selling arty knick-knacks. There are stalls lined up along the lake front selling jewellery, bags, clothes; it is probably a Sunday Market. The balconies of restaurants and hotels are filled with colourful flowering plants. And the calming presence of the lake adds a sense of serenity to the ambience.

Photos by Lata

There are several staircases to go uphill in the town, flanked on both sides by eateries, and stores selling lingerie, clothes, shoes, bags, decorative items. It is a splendid setting and I see young women posing for pictures on the stairs. I am sure the pictures would make a style statement, considering Bellagio's proximity to the fashionable city of Milan. 

I indulge in window-shopping for some time without daring to look at any price tag! The views of the lake and of the mountains--some of them belonging to the Alps range--are of course invaluable. Later, when we board the boat for returning to Como, the strip of Bellagio starts receding in the distance. It is early evening, and cool winds across the decks prompt me to put on a jacket.

The boat moors at piers in the villages that come along our way. People alight and board. An enthusiastic group of Italian senior citizens is on board our boat.They start singing. We enjoy their music. There is no language barrier when it comes to music. Their energy is infectious. They laugh, joke, take pictures and sing. 

Soon we are back in Como and it is time to get off the boat. It has been a lovely day. No doubt, Nature has been very kind to this part of the world, but the human effort in keeping it clean and maintaining miles and miles of uninterrupted beauty is what makes this place special and irresistible for visitors.

Goodbye Bellagio!

More Snapshots From London!

I had the opportunity to live in Central London for a few weeks between mid-April and mid-May this year. Barring the first few days, the weather was generally great to go out and soak in the sights, sounds and smells of the city. The sprawling parks had just begun to look lovely with fresh green leaves on the tall trees and unending stretches of luxurious lawns spread across the length and breadth of their expanse. With the fabulous public transport, it was wonderful to experience London this spring. Here are some pictures to tell the story:

The shops were filled with merchandise related to the royal wedding weeks before the event. Shelves were overflowing with bells, boxes, decorative plates, mugs and masks displaying images of the handsome royal couple. Breakfast shows on the telly (that was the only time I watched it for a little while) couldn't stop discussing the forthcoming extravaganza. The British do adore and love their royals a lot! Pictures from Oxford Street.

And this one from a shopping centre in Surrey Quays! Parents were busy getting masks for their children a few days before the royal wedding.

St. Paul's Cathedral is imposing, and in spite of being located in a busy urban area, it manages to offer a good amount of space for citizens to take a break, or catch some sun on a nice day, or sit amidst the flowers and greenery while having a quick bite on a busy work day. At the St. Paul's Cathedral.

The telephone booth is one of several icons of London. This particular one at the St. Paul's Cathedral serves as a backdrop for many newly-weds when they pose in their wedding finery. With the Cathedral at one end and the Tate Modern at the other end, and the Millennium Bridge joining them; this area is very charming.

It is hard to imagine the streets of London without the sleek red buses winding their way through them. Some of them display "Incredible India" advertisements with images of popular tourist destinations in India. This particular one with the Golden Temple in Amritsar.

This beautiful water fountain caught my attention while walking in a park. When I went close and read the inscription, I found that it had an India connect (not surprising or unusual in London). But just that I was amused to find it when I was least expecting it. At the Regent's Park.

This stunningly beautiful piece of fabric attracted me with its radiant colours and rich tapestry. To my surprise, I found that it was possibly from Burhanpur in central India. It was used as a panel while making tents for the royals while travelling. At the Victoria & Albert Museum.

This is an ubiquitous item in our kitchens. A round stainless steel box containing several small containers for different spices. Looks like it has caught the fancy of shoppers in London! At the Borough Market.

Surprised to find signboards written in Gurmukhi in London? Well, it is Southall, the mini-Punjab in the city. With gurudwaras, turbaned mechanics at work in an automobile garage, Indian eateries, Punjabi matrons wearing salwar suits visiting the local market, and huge stores selling Indian groceries and vegetables; it gets as Punjabi as it can.

It was as if this peacock was trained to entertain visitors. It gave a long enough performance for everyone to shoot videos and take pictures to their hearts' content, its magnificent plumage spread like a huge fan against the green foliage of the garden. At the Holland Park.

Photos by Lata

This picture symbolises spring and summer in a London park, fresh, tranquil and beautiful! At the Regent's Park.

My previous post on the same lines is here.

Snapshots From London!

Sharing some recent pictures from my London album. These days, one takes hundreds of pictures when one is on a trip. I did too. Here are a few of them that tell a story or are just a bit different from the rest. Take a look!

I like how the little girl is holding her own in front of the ferocious-looking lion! Look at her posture, spunk and attitude. Did not particularly see her while clicking. Else I would have included her fully in the frame. Was amused to notice her later while looking at this picture. At the Trafalgar Square.

This picture too happened by chance. How interesting that the man and the woman in the sculpture are looking in the opposite direction while their counterparts in real life are facing each other! A nice contrast. At the Buckingham Palace.

Hundreds of lovely ladies and gentlemen waiting outside the Buckingham Palace on a pleasant sunny afternoon. Apparently the Queen had invited them to tea. While the security guards were busy assisting them and maintaining order, the guests were making the most of the opportunity by posing for pictures using the palace as a backdrop. The ladies were at their elegant best flaunting their flowing dresses and flowery hats. The men looked suave in their formal suits. I had no invitation, I just happened to be there and enjoyed watching the spectacle from the sidelines.

Serenity at its best. This lady had found an ideal spot to relax, rejuvenate or reflect on her life. At the Kew Gardens.

I was in a bus going towards the British Museum when this sculpture of the Mahatma caught my eye. I saw what the nearest bus stop was and made a note to stop there on my way back. 

While I was busy taking pictures, a group of people led by a lady descended at the statue. She stood there for a good ten minutes addressing her group, while I waited at a distance not wanting to eavesdrop. At the Tavistock Square.

The dark clouds. The majestic lion dominates the frame, watching the traffic pass by. A contrast between stillness and movement, this makes for an interesting picture, with the red bus so typical of London adding its own charm to the scene. At the Trafalgar Square.

So exhilarating to see the Indian tricolour fluttering gently in foreign skies. The massive building housing diplomats stands gracefully on a leafy street in Central London. I stood there for some time and witnessed a flurry of activity. Officials getting out of a car being escorted inside the building by a young staff member. Noticed that the car had a diplomatic number plate. At the Indian High Commission.

This pair of pigeons was having the beautifully maintained garden exclusively to themselves. The garden was featuring white flowers especially to commemorate Princess Diana who lived in Kensington Palace before her life ended in a tragic accident 20 years ago. She used to spend time in this garden and often talked to the gardeners. A nice tribute to the stylish lady! At the Kensington Palace Gardens.

As I said, most of these pictures were taken without much planning. I discovered these interesting elements only later while looking at them at leisure!

Photos by Lata

I could not have moved around in London without the Underground and the red busses. The bus has already appeared in one of the earlier pictures. Standing or walking on these escalators is an integral part of every Londoner's life. They take you up to the exit and down to the train efficiently and comfortably. Loved the Underground experience!

Stroll Into Summer At Kew!

The Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, popularly known as Kew Gardens, is a sprawling expanse of green in Southwest London that comes alive in the spring and summer, welcoming throngs of people to its serene locale housing a huge variety of flora. I visited the gardens on a sunny and cool day in June. The weather was perfect for exploring the place on foot. Though, at the end of the day I was left with sore, aching feet, missing several sites that I had meant to go to, but didn't have the time for. Nevertheless, what I could manage to see was wonderfully refreshing and very enjoyable indeed. 

What began as gardens surrounding royal residences several centuries ago is a United Nations World Heritage Site today. Spread over 326 acres, the site has 40 historically important buildings and a collection of over 40, 000 species of plants. It houses an internationally important institute for botanical research too.

Easily accessible by the London Underground, it provides an escape from the hustle and bustle of city life to Londoners and tourists alike. With instructions, maps and directions, the place is very easy to reach for a first-time visitor like me. Having bought my ticket for Pounds 15, I am all set to take in the Gardens. Here are some pictures giving a glimpse of my visit. They are not necessarily in any order, just enjoy them!

The Gardens are a short walk away from this lovely little station. A signboard at the station invites visitors to "Stroll into summer" at Kew. Outside, the street is lined with beautiful houses on both sides. Each house has a pretty garden in front, with colourful flowers and pleasant landscaping.

One of the several splendid paths in the Gardens. One can walk to one's heart's content breathing in fresh air and then take a break on a bench like the one in the picture below, thoughtfully provided all over the park.

I loved the light and the shadows in this picture!

The Treetop Walkway is fun, allowing one to climb 18 metres high into a canopy of lime, sweet chestnut and oak trees for a bird's eye view of the Gardens. There is a staircase and a lift as well.

The elegant Palm House is an icon of the Gardens. You step into the warm and moist interiors to take a look at the tropical plants being nurtured there. The plants look fresh and full of life, in spite of being grown in an artificially maintained atmosphere. Outside, the rose shrubs are in full bloom, adding colour, beauty and a mild fragrance to the surroundings.

Warmer and more moist than the Palm House is the Waterlily House!

Lake and the Sackler Crossing! This is one of the most tranquil sites in the Gardens. The crossing, seen at a distance in the above picture offers stunning views of the lake, trees, sky, and ducks and swans gliding playfully in the waters.

The shapely curve of the Sackler Crossing!

The Rock Garden is aesthetically landscaped. It features mountain plants from six different regions of the world. One can see plants and flowers in abundance that one may never have seen before. 

Photos by Lata

These lovely orchids are on display at the Princess of Wales Conservatory. This large glasshouse contains ten climatic zones. It is home to a huge variety of plant life including ferns, cacti, orchids, waterlilies and carnivorous plants. The sheer variety and arrangement of plants takes your breath away!

There is much more to see and do at the Gardens. This post and these pictures are just a sampler!