यादों के पिटारे से : एक भारत महोत्सव, भारत में भी हो

हाल ही में फिल्म "इमर्जेंसी " देखते हुए पर्दे पर कई बार पुपुल जयकर के क़िरदार से आमना-सामना हुआ. आज की पीढ़ी के कई लोग उनसे वाक़िफ़ नहीं होंगे. वह इंदिरा गाँधी की बचपन की मित्र तो थीं ही, प्रधान मंत्री बनने के बाद भी इंदिरा गाँधी का उनके साथ बहुत निकट का नाता था. फिल्म के दौरान मुझे उस बातचीत की याद आई जो मैंने दिल्ली में पुपुल जयकर के साथ की थी, और जो इंटरव्यू की शक्ल में ९ जून, १९८५ के नवभारत टाइम्स में प्रकाशित हुई थी. मैं उस समय नवभारत टाइम्स में बतौर उप-संपादक काम करती थी. अब वह दुनिया बहुत पीछे छूट चुकी है, लेकिन अख़बार के पीले पड़ चुके पन्नों पर अपने लेख आज भी मेरे पास सुरक्षित हैं. कुछ पन्ने जर्जर हो गए हैं. सोचा, क्यों न अपनी इन यादों को अपने ब्लॉग पर सहेज कर रखूँ.  तो यह है उसी कोशिश की पहली कड़ी, यानी पूरा इंटरव्यू जस का तस: 

पहला भारत महोत्सव लंदन में १९८२ में आयोजित हुआ था. उसकी परिकल्पना और संयोजन में श्रीमती पुपुल जयकर ने प्रमुख भूमिका निभाई थी. फ़्रांस और अमेरिका में हो रहे भारत महोत्सव में भी उनकी भूमिका महत्त्वपूर्ण है--वह भारत महोत्सव की सलाहकार समिति की अध्यक्ष हैं. श्रीमती जयकर लम्बे समय से हस्तकला और हथकरघा की दुनिया से जुड़ी हुई हैं और इससे सम्बद्ध महत्त्वपूर्ण पदों पर काम करती रही हैं. उन पर कृष्णमूर्ति के दर्शन का गहरा असर है. ७० बरस पहले उत्तर प्रदेश के इटावा में जन्मी श्रीमती जयकर आज भी अपने काम में सक्रिय हैं.

फ़्रांस और अमेरिका में हो रहे भारत महोत्सव को लेकर कुछ सवालों के साथ मैंने उनके निवास, ११ सफ़दरजंग रोड पर उनसे बातचीत की. बातचीत शुरू करने से पहले ही उन्होंने साफ़-साफ़ कहा--" तुम जो पूछना चाहो, बेहिचक पूछो. कोई भी सवाल मुझे बुरा नहीं लगेगा." वे आराम से, बड़ी तसल्ली के साथ, मुस्कुराते हुए बातचीत करती हैं और हिंदी के बजाय अंगेज़ी में बात करना उन्हें ज़्यादा आसान लगता है. बातचीत के कुछ अंश:

भारत महोत्सव के उपलक्ष्य में १९८५ में जारी डाक टिकट 

भारत महोत्सव का उद्देश्य विदेश में भारत की छवि पेश करना है. लेकिन कैसी छवि?

हम विदेशियों के सामने भारत की वास्तविक तस्वीर प्रस्तुत करना चाहते हैं. हम इसी की भरसक कोशिश कर रहे हैं. कई क्षेत्रों के लोग इसमें हिस्सा लेने जा रहे हैं. इससे वहाँ के लोग जानेंगे कि हमारा संगीत कैसा है, हमारा रंगमंच कैसा है, हमारा नृत्य कैसा है, प्रदर्शनकारी कलाएँ कैसी हैं... 

लेकिन यह सब तो एक आम भारतीय आदमी तक भी नहीं पहुँचता. उसे अच्छा संगीत सुनने या अच्छा नाटक, नृत्य देखने का मौका ही कहाँ मिलता है ?

यह बिलकुल सही है कि उसे मौका नहीं मिलता. मैं खुद काफ़ी अरसे से यह कोशिश कर रही हूँ  कि एक भारत महोत्सव भारत में ही किया जाए, जिससे हमारे लोग, हमारे युवा, हमारे बच्चे हमारी महान सांस्कृतिक परम्परा के बारे में जानें, उसे उसके सही रूप में देख पाएँ. मैंने सरकार के सामने यह सुझाव रखा भी है. 

इस तरह के महोत्सव के आयोजन में क्या ऐसा नहीं लगता कि हम अपनी "संस्कृति" को डिब्बाबंद किसी चीज़ की तरह बाहर भेज रहे हैं?

तो इसका और कौन-सा तरीका हो सकता है?

विदेश से विभिन्न क्षेत्रों के जाने-माने लोगों को यहाँ भी तो बुलाया जा सकता है. वे अपनी तरह से भारत को देखेंगे और अपने देश लौटकर उसके बारे में लोगों को बताएँगे. या फ़िर पर्यटकों को ज़्यादा सुविधाएँ , सस्ते हवाई टिकट दिए जा सकते हैं. 

पर्यटक सुविधाएँ नहीं चाहते. वर्ना भारत के दरवाज़े तो हमेशा खुले रहे हैं. पर्यटक किसी भी वक़्त आ सकते थे. लेकिन उनके दिमाग़ के सांस्कृतिक दायरे में भारत की कोई जगह थी ही नहीं. पर हम जानते हैं कि हमारी सांस्कृतिक परम्परा जितनी प्राचीन है, उतनी ही महान भी. इसीलिए भारत की नई प्रगतिशील तस्वीर के साथ दुनिया के सामने उसकी प्राचीन परम्पराओं की तस्वीर पेश करना हमारी ज़िम्मेदारी है. 

और किसी देश ने तो अपनी संस्कृति के प्रदर्शन का ऐसा कोई आयोजन किसी अन्य देश में नहीं किया?

नहीं, इतना बड़ा सांस्कृतिक आयोजन पहले कभी कहीं नहीं हुआ. 

यह महोत्सव इतना लम्बा क्यों है? सुना है अमेरिका में १८ महीने  चलेगा.

मुख्य कार्यक्रम तो करीब इस दिसम्बर तक ख़त्म हो जाएँगे। फ़िर ४०-५० अलग-अलग प्रदर्शनियाँ अमेरिका के ६० - ७० शहरों का दौरा करेंगी. यह काफ़ी दिनों तक चलता रहेगा. फ़िर समापन समारोह के वक़्त एक और बड़ा आयोजन हो सकता है. यदि हमें विदेशियों को हमारा देश दिखाना ही है, तो पूरी शान के साथ दिखाना चाहिए, वर्ना ऐसे आयोजन का कोई मतलब नहीं है.

लंदन में भारत महोत्सव हुए काफ़ी अर्सा हो गया. उसका कोई साफ़-साफ़ प्रभाव नज़र आता है?

बिलकुल! वहाँ भारत की पृष्ठभूमि पर अचानक इतनी सारी फिल्में बनीं. महोत्सव ने वहाँ भारत के बारे में सोई भावनाओं को लोगों के मन में फ़िर से जगा दिया. 

वहाँ रहने वाले भारतीयों के साथ अंग्रेज़ों के बर्ताव में क्या कोई सुधार हुआ है? क्या वे भारतीयों की ओर एक अलग नज़रिये से देख पाते हैं?

देखो, यह तो राजनीतिक सवाल है. भारतीयों के प्रति अंग्रेज़ों के रवैये के बारे में मैं कोई टिप्पणी करना नहीं चाहती.

आप पिछले दिनों अमेरिका में थीं. वहाँ के लोग कितने उत्सुक हैं इस महोत्सव को लेकर?

बहुत! वहाँ अख़बारों -पत्रिकाओं में भारत के बारे में खूब छप रहा है. "नॅशनल जियोग्राफ़िक " भारत पर आठ फीचर तैयार कर रहा है. लोग अचानक भारत के बारे में जानना चाहते हैं. यह सब जो भारत को मिला है, वह तो लाखों डॉलर के बदले भी नहीं खरीदा जा सकता था. 

इस समारोह में हिस्सा लेने जा रहे और न जा रहे कलाकारों को लेकर पिछले दिनों काफ़ी विवाद खड़ा हुआ था?

हज़ारों कलाकार हैं हमारे देश में. ज़ाहिर है हर कलाकार नहीं जा सकता. यह सम्भव ही नहीं है. चयन समिति में अलग-अलग क्षेत्रों के लोग हैं. फ़िर हमें सिर्फ़ दिल्ली या बम्बई के ही कलाकारों को नहीं लेना है, मणिपुर और असम और मद्रास से भी कलाकार आएँ तभी तो भारत का सच्चा प्रतिनिधित्व हो सकेगा. अब इस सब में कुछ लोगों का नाराज़ होना तो बिलकुल स्वाभाविक है. 

यह इतना बड़ा आयोजन है. इसकी तैयारी तो काफ़ी समय से चल रही होगी. लेकिन इसके बारे में लोगों को अभी कुछ दिन पहले ही पता चला है...

हाँ, पिछला एक वर्ष हमारे देश के लिए बड़ा दुःखद रहा. और ऐसे समय उत्सवों की बातें नहीं की जाती हैं. फ़िर  ३१ अक्तूबर के बाद तीन महीनों तक मेरे दिमाग़ में महोत्सव का ख्याल तक नहीं आ सका. यह तो वाक़ई एक जादुई करिश्मा ही कहिए कि हम निर्धारित समय पर इस महोत्सव का आयोजन कर पा रहे हैं. 

इसके लिए होने वाले खर्च का क्या हिसाब है?

कलाकारों की हवाई यात्रा और कलाकृतियों, वाद्यों आदि को वहाँ ले जाने की ज़िम्मेदारी हमारी है. वहाँ हमारा सारा खर्च वे ही लोग यानी फ़्रांस और अमेरिका की सरकार उठाएगी.

भारत महोत्सव के लिए इतना खर्च उठाने में अमेरिका या फ़्रांस की क्या दिलचस्पी हो सकती है?

शायद वे भारत से और ज़्यादा दोस्ती करना चाहते हैं. 

क्या महोत्सव के दौरान भारतीय चीज़ें, जैसे कपड़े या हस्तकला की अन्य वस्तुएँ बेची जाएँगी ?

नहीं, महोत्सव तो व्यावसायिक नहीं है लेकिन हथकरघा और हस्तकला निर्यात निगम कुछ चीज़ें बेच रहा है. फ़िर अमेरिका की एक बहुत बड़ी व्यावसायिक श्रृंखला, "ब्लूमिंगडेल्स" अपनी १९ दुकानों में भारतीय सामान बेचेगी. और भी कई दुकानों में ये चीज़ें बिकेंगी. तो इस तरह से २० से ३० करोड़ रुपए तो सीधे इस बिक्री से ही मिल सकते हैं. औद्योगिक क्षेत्र में अमेरिका भारत से सहयोग करेगा, यह उम्मीद भी है. 

महोत्सव में प्रदर्शन के लिए कई अनमोल कलाकृतियाँ बाहर भेजी गई हैं. उनकी सुरक्षा को लेकर आप चिंतित नहीं हैं?

चिंतित होने का सवाल ही नहीं उठता. पहले भी हम ऐसी वस्तुओं को विदेश भेज चुके हैं. और उन्हें विदेश भेजने पर किसी को क्या ऐतराज़ हो सकता है. खतरा तो कोई चीज़ मद्रास से दिल्ली भेजने में भी है. और फ़िर जिन संग्रहालयों में हमारी कलाकृतियाँ जा रही हैं, वे दुनिया के श्रेष्ठ संग्रहालयों में से हैं. मैं आपको यक़ीन दिला सकती हूँ कि वहाँ इनकी पूरी हिफ़ाज़त होगी.

मैं चिंतित हूँ तो हमारे ही देश में कलाकृतियों, प्राचीन मूर्तियों, पुरातन भवनों और स्मारकों की सुरक्षा को लेकर. ये सब अनमोल हैं और देश में जहाँ-तहाँ बिखरे पड़े हैं लेकिन उनकी क़द्र नहीं की जा रही. लोग पुराने भवन देखने जाते हैं तो उनकी दीवारों पर अपने नाम लिख देते हैं. पुरानी मूर्तियों की अक़्सर चोरियाँ होती रहती हैं. 

देश में सांस्कृतिक मूल्य की प्राचीन वस्तुओं की सुरक्षा और रख-रखाव के उद्देश्य से हमने एक ट्रस्ट बनाया है--"इंडियन नॅशनल ट्रस्ट फॉर आर्ट एण्ड कल्चरल हेरिटेज". हमारी सांस्कृतिक परम्परा की रक्षा करना बहुत ज़रूरी है. यह परम्परा सिर्फ़ कलाकृतियों में ही नहीं होती, हमारे आचार-व्यवहार, हमारे रहन-सहन, हमारे मूल्यों में होती है. इसलिए यह बहुत ज़रूरी है कि अपने बच्चों के लिए इसे सहेजकर रखें, उन्हें यह सब सिखाएँ.

एक और बात बता दूँ. जनता शासन के दौरान एक प्रदर्शनी फ़्रांस गई थी. और आज जो कुछ लोग इस महोत्सव को लेकर सवाल उठा रहे हैं, वे उस वक़्त उस प्रदर्शनी से जुड़े भी थे. 

इस महोत्सव के दौरान यह भी तो हो सकता है कि हमारी बेजोड़ कलाकृतियों की प्रतिकृतियाँ बना ली जाएँ ?

जब हम अपनी कलाकृतियाँ स्मिथसोनियन और मेट्रोपोलिटन म्यूज़ियम ऑफ़ आर्ट में प्रदर्शन के लिए भेजते हैं, तो हमें इस तरह के सवाल नहीं पूछने चाहिए. फ़िर हमारी कलाकृतियों की प्रतिकृतियाँ बनाना कोई आसान काम थोड़े ही है. 

क्या इस तरह का कोई आयोजन दूसरे ग़रीब देशों में किए जाने की कोई योजना है--यानी लातीनी अमेरिकी या अफ़्रीकी देशों में?

यह तय करने का काम तो सरकार का ही है. 

Bishnupur: A Marvel In Terracotta!

I have visited Kolkata several times. Loved each visit. But my recent visit was a little more special because I got an opportunity to make a trip to Bishnupur -- a lovely little town known for its magnificent terracotta temples and exquisite Baluchari sarees. I went with a group of friends, and that had its own charm. It was clear from my research that I would be in for a visual treat in Bishnupur. Not only did Bishnupur impress me, but it also lived up to its reputation beyond my expectations. 

Bishnupur has 20 terracotta temples built mostly during the 17th and 18th centuries. They were constructed by generations of Malla kings who were ruling that part of Bengal then. All of them had Krishna as the main deity, but now most of them are not functioning as temples. They are being preserved and maintained by the Archeological Survey of India for their spectacular carvings and amazing architecture. The domes, ceilings, towers and turrets of each temple are aesthetically designed, providing a glimpse into different architectural styles of that time.

We cover the 140-kilometre distance from Kolkata in about four hours by car. It is a pleasant ride showcasing the countryside of Bengal with green fields, villages and small towns. After checking into a hotel and freshening up, we set out on a tour of the temples in e-rickshaws. They are more suited for negotiating the narrow lanes of the town than cars. The ride in the rickshaw is delightful. The small houses, quiet lanes, children riding bicycles without having to worry about traffic are refreshing for us, accustomed as we are to the hustle and bustle of a city.

Our guide takes us to the Rasmancha, Jor-Bangla Temple, Madanmohan Temple, Shyam Ray Temple, Lalji Temple one after the other, all along narrating interesting anecdotes, and pointing out details from the intricate carvings. The temples look resplendent in their natural red hue. They get this colour because of the presence of iron oxide in laterite--the locally available soil that was used to build them. The walls of the temples are extensively covered with terracotta--fired clay--tiles with elaborate carvings. The artisans have carved such minute details in these tiles that one is awestruck by their beauty. The carvings depict stories from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. Also, there are scenes of armies at war, kings on hunting expeditions, women grooming themselves and dancing, musicians playing instruments and so on. One of the tiles has Bheeshma lying on a bed of arrows, while another has Ravana with ten heads. And all these on small tiles, like miniature paintings! One wonders how the artisans created these from mythological stories when written texts were scarce and oral narrations were the only common means.

Photos by Lata

The lanes of Bishnupur are lined with small shops selling terracotta items--wind chimes, lamps, idols, cups, pots etc. What catches one's eye is the array of terracotta horses in different sizes. The horses are short, with unusually long ears. They stand out because of their elegant stance and elongated neck. All the items including the horses are in striking red colour of natural terracotta. These horses are called Bankura horses as they are made in Panchmura, a village close to Bishnupur in Bankura district. They have commonly been used in religious ceremonies in village rituals. Perhaps now they are the most popular souvenirs from Bishnupur. 

Another item that visitors like to take home with them is the stunningly beautiful Baluchari saree. The sarees have human and animal figures and scenes from the epics woven into them, all inspired from the temples. They have men and women, deers, horses, chariots, trees and flowers just like one sees them in the carvings in the temples. That is why draping a Baluchari saree is like carrying a little bit of art and heritage from this charming temple town!

Of Kumartuli, Clay And Divinity In Kolkata!

From Jorasanko Thakur Bari, I head towards Kumartuli in an auto rickshaw. It is a short distance away. The auto driver stops at the mouth of a lane off Rabindra Sarani and asks me to enter Kumartuli from that point. 

I have always been fascinated by pictures of clay idols of Durga in the making, and had made it a point to include Kumartuli in my Kolkata itinerary. I had read about this potters' colony in magazines and newspapers. It has also been featured in the Vidya Balan starrer "Kahaani" (2012). The stunning idols of Durga that people adore and venerate during Durga Puja are created in the lanes and bylanes of this modest neighbourhood. 

I have been wondering what I will get to see here in the month of December. Durga Puja got over just a couple of months ago and it is too early to start making Durga idols for the next year. I so want to see the potters in action! As I start walking in the lane flanked by small studios on both sides, to my utter delight I notice forms of Goddess Saraswati, complete with her veena and swan being shaped in clay. I realise they are being made for Saraswati Puja which is celebrated in Bengal on Vasant Panchami. I thank my luck for the good timing and set out to explore further. 

There are some men sitting outside what looks like a small shop, and just to make sure that I don't get lost in the labyrinthine alleys I ask them in Hindi --if I want to come back to this point should I ask for Rabindra Sarani? One of them replies enthusiastically--Didi, Rabindra Sarani nei, tram rasta bolben. I smile and thank him for this useful tip. Yes, this is a tram route alright. With buoyed confidence because of my small headway in local parlance, and eager anticipation I walk ahead.

Hundreds of potters and their families live and work in this congested area. The studios are rather small and a lot of unfinished work is lying outside in the lanes. The inner frame of the idol is made with straw, and several forms of the Goddess at this stage are just bodies of straw in different sizes. The idols that are in more advanced stages of making have the straw covered with clay. Saraswati--sitting with her customary poise, a veena resting in her lap and a graceful swan at her feet--is taking shape. Many of them are headless. But several of them are complete with a head too! The round face is adorned with exquisite fish-like eyes, and it looks radiant even in a raw state. Kudos to the nimble fingers of the artisans who create divinity with clay in these humble surroundings.

As I go deeper in the bylanes, I notice other figures too. There she is as Durga with multiple arms and perched on a tiger, while elsewhere, as Kali she is ferocious with her tongue sticking out, and Shiva at her feet. What stands out in all these is the beautiful expressive face. And perfect proportions. Nothing is out of place. Everything exists in a harmonious balance. I can only imagine how magnificent they will look when their faces are painted, and when their saree and jewellery are in place.

Photos by Lata

I am surprised to see how unobtrusive and welcoming the artisans are. They go about their work without questioning my presence in their midst. And I am not the only one. There is a young visitor taking pictures with a sophisticated camera. Then there is a foreigner with an Indian guide who is relating mythological stories about these figures to her. There is another guest who is watching a potter and singing to him as the latter is busy at work. Kumartuli is also a popular destination for organised walks.

In spite of the abysmal conditions, people are friendly and lively. Children playing in the lanes, elders sitting outside their homes soaking in the sun, and potters chatting with neighbours and fellow potters during a break. They have put me completely at ease with their disarming smiles and easy manner. Filled with admiration for their art and their spirited way of life, I walk back to the point from where I had started. It is not difficult and I make it to the place without having to ask for tram rasta!

At The Tagore House In Kolkata!

I am at the entrance to the Jorasanko Thakur Bari. It is marked by a red arch, opening out into the busy Rabindra Sarani. It is a pleasant winter morning in Kolkata. People are trickling in slowly. Outside, it is a chaotic and noisy road with cars, autos, carts and rickshaws struggling to find their way among the throngs of pedestrians and hawkers. Once you enter the arch and walk the short road to the gate of the imposing house, you are transported to a bygone era. In Kolkata for a brief trip, I have been looking forward to visiting Gurudev Rabindranath Tagore's house. Now at the doorstep, I am eager to see the place where he was born and where he breathed his last.

The elegant red house with a garden of trees and lush green lawns is like a tranquil oasis, amidst the cacophony of the world outside. Flowers of different hues add colour and charm to the garden. It is just the beginning of the day and there is no queue at the ticket booth. I buy my ticket for Rs. 20 which allows me entry into the house that contains the Rabindra Bharati Museum now. However, there is a separate ticket if one wishes to take pictures. I get it from the office for Rs. 50. This is good for taking pictures outside. Photography inside the museum is not permitted.

I walk around in the garden for some time and then make my way to the house. It  was built in the 18th century. It consists of large rooms that are well-lit and airy, with spacious verandas running along the length of the house. The high ceilings contribute to its grandeur. Tagore family comprised of affluent landlords and the house reflects the lifestyle of the rich in those days.

Footwear is not allowed inside the house so I leave mine in the passageway leading to the staircase. Upstairs, the chambers offer us a peek into the lives of the Nobel-laureate and his illustrious family. Many members of the family were proficient in some or other form of art. As a prolific painter, poet, writer, composer and dramatist, Gurudev was the embodiment of creativity in multiple disciplines.

The house has his robes neatly hung is glass cases on display. Some furniture, and his wife Mrinalini Devi's kitchen is also part of the display. Then there is a maternity room, used exclusively for deliveries in the family.  A detailed family tree of the Tagores is an interesting exhibit too. Photographs from his association with and visits to Japan and China occupy a large part of the galleries in the museum. Pictures from Shantiniketan where he is seen hosting eminent personalities are there too. Then there are several texts in Bengali script and a large number of reproductions of his paintings, neatly framed and hung across rooms and hallways. I regret not being able to read the script. Access to the second floor is closed so I miss seeing whatever is there.

Photos by Lata

Most of us are familiar with the images of Rabindranath wearing a long beard and flowing robes, but it is interesting to see pictures from his younger days in western clothes. He is tall, athletic, intense and aristocratic. One cannot help being overwhelmed with the sheer volume of his creative genius. Being at his ancestral home that nurtured his talent is nothing short of a pilgrimage!

What touches me most is the detailed account of his last days put up in neat frames in one of the verandas. These lines are poignant in particular:

When death comes and whispers to me 

"Thy days are numbered",

Let me say to him, "I have lived in love and not in mere time",

He will ask, "Will thy songs remain?"

I shall say, "I know not, but this I know

that often when I sang, I found my eternity."

-- Rabindranath Tagore

"The Last Supper" In London!

While reading, I come across a lot of fascinating material about "The Last Supper". Some stories, some facts, some theories and a few myths too. There has been speculation about the possibility of a hidden mathematical code or message in the painting. Some have also talked about a musical score embedded in it. Some believe that the person seated to the right of Jesus is actually Mary Magdalene, one of his followers who travelled with him and was present at his crucifixion, burial and resurrection. The upturned salt cellar in front of Judas is symbolic of betrayal. And instead of giving a halo to Jesus, Leonardo placed a window so as to provide the same effect.

The painting is supposed to contain references to the number 3 in keeping with the Christian belief in the Holy Trinity. The apostles are seated in groups of three. There are three windows. And the figure of Jesus is shaped like a triangle. 

As intriguing as all this is, the most relevant piece of information for me at this point of time is that an important copy of the original exists in London. I am going to be in London after Milan. This offers me an opportunity to check out Giampietrino's 16th century copy. It is on display at the Royal Academy of Arts in Central London. I visit the gallery on a pleasant day in the afternoon, less than a week after seeing the original in Milan.

The academy is a privately funded art institute based in Burlington House on Piccadilly. Established in 1768, it promotes visual arts through various activities. I walk through some halls and climb the grand staircase to go to the next level. One of the helpful staff members guides me to the section housing the copy. One has to go past a wall that acts as a partition and then the painting comes in full view. It is smaller than the original, about 119 in x 309 in, but still impressive in size.

Photos by Lata

Unlike the original, there is no time restriction here. One can spend as much time as one wishes to. In fact, there are comfortable sofas placed right in front of the painting for visitors who might want to gaze at the work seated comfortably. The room is well-lit. And the painting is much brighter than the original. The academy purchased this oil on canvas in 1821 from H. Fraville. The copy is very faithful to the original, but it lacks the 3-dimensional effect and depth to some extent because the top third part of Leonardo's composition is missing in it. Details like the tableware, food items, and the overturned salt cellar are visible more clearly. Also prominent are the feet of Jesus that were lost due to cutting of a door in the original.

There is a constant flow of visitors, but it is not crowded here. People rest on the plush sofas for a while and have a good look at the display. They take pictures, discuss the work with each other, and savour it from far and near. As for me,  I am happy I got a chance to see both, the original and the copy in a short span of time!

This post is the last in the three-part series on "The Last Supper". Read the first and the second part here.

An Up-Close Look At "The Last Supper!"

The next morning, I am at the ticket office at eight. There is just one lady ahead of me. She walks away soon. I wonder if she was there for cancelling or buying a ticket. As I walk to the window and request a ticket, the lady looks into her records and asks, is 3:30 in the afternoon okay? I say, yes. It is ten Euros without guide and 13.50 with an English-speaking guide, she says and waits for my answer. I choose the latter option. She swipes my card and hands over the receipt to me saying, be at the entrance ten minutes before your time. Soon I am out of the office thanking my stars.

I return to my hotel for breakfast. After breakfast, it is time to prepare for what I am going to see in the afternoon. Many interesting facts emerge while reading about the painting. It was the last decade of the 15th century. The main church building had been remodelled into a mausoleum for the ruling family of Milan. Ludovico Sforza, the Duke of Milan commissioned the painting as a centrepiece for the mausoleum, and Leonardo da Vinci began working on it in 1495. Later, the structure was used as a convent, and this particular chamber as its dining hall. 

The door that was cut into the painting made the feet of Jesus disaapper

It was customary to paint frescoes on wet plaster. It demanded the work to be completed quickly while the plaster was still wet. Leonardo did not wish to finish the work in a hurry and so he chose to paint on a dry wall. So this work is not exactly a fresco in reality. He coated the dry wall with a primer of white lead. This would increase the brightness of the oil and tempera that was to be applied later. Now Leonardo could afford to work slowly and achieve the desired effect of gradual shading in his painting.

It took him three years to complete the work. Within a few decades, the paint started flaking as it had not adhered properly to the dry wall. It has undergone several restorations since then. In 1652, a door was cut into the wall by the residents of the convent. It destroyed the lower part of the work in the centre, making the feet of Jesus disappear. Then, Napoleon's soldiers used the premises as a stable in the 18th century, causing further damage. The building was bombed in World War II, but the painting survived miraculously because of effective sandbagging. 

After going through such details, I make way for the convent with heightened curiosity and reach a good 30 minutes before my allotted slot. 20 minutes later, I join others in my group at the entrance. Our guide arrives. She is a middle-aged lady who speaks English with a heavy accent. She could be Italian or French. She leads us through a narrow corridor into a wider corridor. The narrow corridor is lined with informative displays. We walk along the longer and wider corridor that runs parallel to the chamber holding the masterpiece. We reach a closed door and are asked to wait there. We are to enter only after the previous group has left. After a brief wait, the door is opened to let us in.

We find ourselves entering through the centre of the longer arm of a rectangular room. It is a bit dark inside. The iconic painting occupies the wall that stands to our right. A small barricade separates it from the visitors. It is large, 180 in x 350 in to be precise. The colours are dull, but the painting is not lifeless. It speaks to you through the gestures and facial expressions of Jesus and his 12 apostles. The long table in front of them with its frugal spread, the windows in the background, the walls on either side and the ceiling exist in perfect symmetry giving the picture an uncanny 3-dimensional feel. I have my ears tuned to the guide's commentary and my eyes focused on the wonder in front of me.

The angelic face of Jesus is the pivot around which the whole scene is planned. It represents the few moments after Jesus tells his apostles that one of them is going to betray him before sunrise. This arouses anger, shock and rage in them and each of them reacts with a different gesture and expression. It is not possible to study each one in detail in the limited time window available, so it is a good idea to take in the picture in its entirety and interpret it later with the help of prints. Of course some homework before the visit helps immensely. And with no disrespect to the guide, if you have enough prior knowledge about the painting, the guide does not add much value to the viewing experience. 

Photos by Lata

Photography without flash is permitted. People pose in front of the painting and get their
pictures taken. The clock is ticking. The guide directs us to the wall opposite "The Last Supper" which is adorned with a fresco by Giovanni Donato da Montorfano on the crucifixion of Jesus. It is an intricate, elaborate and impressive work, dwarfed by the giant with which it shares this space.

A stern matronly lady who manages the traffic of visitors to this chamber indicates that our 15 minutes are over. The next batch is waiting outside the door. They will be let in only after we leave. The exit takes us to a small garden which opens outside, close to the entrance. There is a gift shop on the way for those who wish to buy memorabilia. 

To be continued

Read the first part here.

A Rendezous With "The Last Supper"!

We have seen depictions of the well-known "The Last Supper" umpteen times in books, magazines, posters, and elsewhere. Numerous artists have painted the scene that portrays the last meal shared by Jesus with his apostles in Jerusalem before he was crucified. It has been one of the most popular visuals in Christian art, and several painters have brought it alive using different media. Leonardo da Vinci's mural painting done in the late 1490s remains the most well-known example to date. It is housed by the refectory of the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan.

Recently when visiting Milan, I find to my pleasant surprise that our hotel is almost next door to the convent. I walk to it the next morning. The dome at the back of the building in red brick is impressive. Restoration work is on in the front facade and on the side wall. There is a mild drizzle. Not enough to deter visitors from standing in the front square to appreciate the structure that houses a church and a convent. I enter the church. It is calm and beautiful. A portly priest is performing a ritual with a group of people. Dressed in flowing white robes, he is a picture of love and compassion. I spend some quiet moments observing the ongoing ceremony. When it is over, people seek not only blessings from the priest; but also a picture with him. He obliges smiling in a grandfatherly way.

After admiring the interiors of the church leisurely, I walk out. The drizzle has stopped now.
The celebrated mural is in a chamber and one needs to buy a ticket to enter. Groups of only 25-30 people are allowed entry every 15 minutes.

I decide to give it a try next day. The next morning is bright and sunny. I arrive at the convent all eager and hopeful. To my utter disappointment, the lady at the ticket counter informs me that they are sold out for the next few weeks. Having come so close to the treasure and not being allowed a dekko is surely disheartening. I ask her, not even one person? She must have been used to such queries from hundreds of agitated tourists. She asks me to come at "eight tomorrow morning" and try. If there is a cancellation, I stand a chance. I decide to try my luck. I am staying only next door, and reaching this place at eight is not difficult at all.

I walk out of the ticket office and rest at the short boundary wall surrounding the convent. The convent is painted in yellow and there is a small garden with lush green lawns and a few trees inside the compound. A tall, narrow, red-coloured banner is placed vertically at the entrance to the convent. It says "Cenacolo Vinciano" in white letters. I see people who have been fortunate enough to get a ticket taking their turns to enter. Some of them have come with their own guides. There is a group of Chinese tourists. One of them holds a print of the mural aloft while a guide instructs them with a pointer on the intricacies of the painting. This is to help them make the most of their brief rendezvous with the maestro's work. I admire their sincere and scholarly approach towards appreciating a masterpiece.

Photos by Lata

The square is mostly quiet, with people sitting on the the few benches along the border. There is a single makeshift stall selling souvenirs. Occasionally one hears the church bells toll. And trams rattling frequently along the adjoining street, Corso Magenta.

I leave hoping for a fruitful visit the next day! 

To be continued

Face To Face With Kathakali At Kalakshetra!

The beats of the maddalam and the chenda can be heard from a distance. They mean that a Kathakali performance is about to begin. The drummers (not seen in the accompanying picture) are standing in the portico of the beautiful Rukmini Arangam at the Kalakshetra in Chennai. 

Photo by Lata

Now, watching Kathakali is a multi-layered experience. You have to decide whether to be completely taken in by the elaborate make up and colourful costumes of the actors, or to listen to the wonderful verses in Manipravalam (a mix of Malayalam and Sanskrit), or be mesmerised by the energetic accompanying music, or to pay attention to the exquisite hand gestures, or to follow the movement of eyes and facial muscles of the artiste, or to absorb and appreciate the spectacle in its entirety. 

For people used to watching other dance forms, it may take a while to appreciate Kathakali. But once you get past the initial awe, and overcome the unfamiliarity; Kathakali opens up to you and embraces you in its majestic grandeur and subtle nuances. And when you realise how rigorous and demanding the training that the artistes undergo is, you simply bow to them with reverence.

Kathakali (literally meaning story play) is drama, dance, storytelling, folk art, and mime all rolled into one. Ideally the training should start when one is in early teens. There are excellent residential schools in Kerala imparting lessons. In fact the initial training to get one's body adapted to this dance form is very similar to what students of kalaripayattu (traditional martial art from Kerala) go through. The aspirants work hard for years to get complete control over their bodies including eyes and facial muscles. And then they have to learn to be comfortable in the make up, costume and jewellery all of which weighs several kilos if put together.

I watched some videos to get an idea about the process of wearing make up, costumes and jewellery for Kathakali. And the two words that came to my mind on watching those were: patience and surrender. An actor must have these qualities in abundance to be a good practitioner of this art. It takes between three and five hours to get ready, with the actor lying down flat on the floor to get his or her face painted by an expert. There is a prescribed colour code, and colours are used according to the character being played.  All the ingredients are natural and the coloured pastes are prepared freshly before the performance. Then putting the costume and jewellery on oneself is again an arduous task. The striking face paints, the bold headgear, the exaggerated eye make up, the curved extensions stuck from the chin to either side on the jawbones, the shiny discs that hide the ears, the ornaments around the neck and on the arms, the umbrella-shaped skirt held aloft by layers of pleated strips of cloth tied around the waist with a rope, the metallic nail extensions making fingers of the left hand look longer, waist-length hair extensions, the pleated pieces of cloth worn around the neck with their knotted ends dangling in front, and the red eyes make for a larger-than-life image of a character. I found that actors insert a part of a particular flower in their eyes to make them red. The reason? Else the eyes would look pale compared to other bright colours on the face.

Now the artiste is all set and ready for the act. Almost all the Kathakali stories are derived from mythological texts, so the plays are often long and go on for several hours. The stage is mostly bare other than the mandatory kalavilakku (oil lamp) placed in the front. The major characters usually enter the stage from behind a curtain held by two men. They pay their respects to the drums, drummers and singers before starting their performance. And then the story unfolds to the tune of the songs, the clang of the cymbals, the beat of the drums and the precise gestures and movements of the player. The dedication and devotion of all the performers is amazing. The actors bear the weight of their costume and accessories, while the drummers bear the weight of their drums, for hours and in a standing position. They bring alive a delicate romantic scene and a ferocious war scene with equal ease, the drumbeats reaching a deafening level during depictions of combat.

Kathakali was an all-male domain until some time ago. Female characters were also enacted by men. Now with women entering the world of Kathakali, the scene is slowly changing. 

Photo by Lata

It is always a pleasure to watch a Kathakali performance at Kalakshetra. Kathakali is traditionally performed in the open air, so the open and informal theatre suits it completely. The totally natural ambience, the lovely students in traditional sarees and veshtis, the fragrance of sambrani, the kolams, the floral decorations, the oil lamps, the picture of Rukmini Devi Arundale standing gracefully,  and the image of Nataraja all add up to make the experience magical and memorable. The five-day Kathakali festival which concluded last week was a perfect way to inaugurate the recently renovated performance space--Rukmini Arangam. Thank you Kalakshetra and Guru Sadanam Balakrishnan for putting together this fabulous treat!

Read my previous post on Kathakali here.

It Is Margazhi, Chennai Is Singing And Dancing!

The music season is on in Chennai. Corresponding with the Tamil month of Margazhi, this is the time of the year when the city celebrates its love for music and dance with hundreds of recitals in dozens of sabhas in the months of December-January. The weather in " hot-hotter-hottest" Chennai is at its best. Flocks of NRIs return home for a tryst with Carnatic music and Bharatanatyam, for a taste of mouthwatering goodies in the sabha canteens, and for a reunion with family and friends.

When it comes to Carnatic music and Bharatanatyam, I am a novice. So don't expect technical inputs on these classical art forms from me! However, I do enjoy going to concerts and soaking in the lovely atmosphere there. It is as if the whole city is enjoying a festival. Maamis in their best silk sarees -- diamonds sparkling in their nose and ears--, NRIs showing their city and its culture to their foreign-born kids, visitors and tourists from other parts of India as well as other countries, connoisseurs from the city who are adept at the art of sabha-hopping honed from years of experience; and students, practitioners and teachers of music and dance are all there relishing this annual extravaganza.

I caught up a bit with the cultural scene during last few days. Chennai as a city rises early. The concerts start from as early as eight in the morning. Usually the morning and afternoon sessions are free for all, while the late afternoon and evening slots require a ticket. I chose a post-lunch Nadaswaram recital by Kollangode R. Subramani and Parali E. Gowtham at the well-known Narada Gana Sabha. The Nadaswaram and Thavil combo presented a high-energy, high decibel performance. I wonder why the musicians were not acknowledging each other through gestures, words of appreciation or smiles. These would have added a lot to their performance.

I tried buying a ticket to the violin recital by Akkarai sisters at the same venue later in the day, but alas, it was sold out. I quickly glanced through my copy of the newspaper to explore other possibilities in the neighbourhood. Decided to try a vocal recital by N. R. Prashanth. It was conveniently scheduled in the auditorium of PS School on RK Mutt Road in Mylapore. The Kapaleeswarar Temple almost next door was going to be my next stop later in the evening so the location suited me fine. I enjoyed the concert a lot. The rapport between the singer, the violinist and the mridangam player was great and that made the recital delightful.The thin attendance in the auditorium was a bit of a dampener for me, but gladly not for the artists.

Later at the temple, it was a vocal recital by an all-women ensemble. Led by the graceful Saashwathi Prabhu, the women sang several devotional compositions. The imposing gopuram of the ancient temple provided a fitting backdrop to the proceedings. It was nice to see Aswini Srinivasan on the mridangam. She handled the instrument with poise and aplomb, earning a place for herself in the male-dominated bastion of the drum.

Another day, another performance. It is Bharatanatyam by Medha Hari. Her slender frame occupied the stage with amazing energy and grace. Considering that it was an early afternoon session, the auditorium was reasonably full with rasikas (connoisseurs) appreciating her nimble steps and movements. After this very enjoyable recital I stepped into another concert that was already in progress in another hall at the same venue. A vocal recital by Archana and Aarathi. It is common for sisters or brothers to perform as a team. I liked what I heard, but not what I saw.The lighting on the stage was so insufficient that the musicians looked dull. On the other hand, the whole auditorium was lit very brightly. It seems it is normal for the lights to be on in the auditorium during a Carnatic music concert. Later, when I saw the sisters at the canteen in natural light, they looked bright and lovely.

I decided to follow the pattern of the previous day and went to the PS School in Mylapore for a vocal recital by Snigdha Venkataramani. It turned out to be a well-attended concert, and very nice too.  What I liked about the recitals was that almost all of them began on time and ended at their stipulated time. There were no felicitations, introductions or speeches. Just artists directly face to face with the discerning audiences!

Photos by Lata

I ended the day with a Kathak presentation by dancer couple Hari and Chethana with their group in the Kapaleeswarar Temple. It was full of rhythm, colour and awesome footwork by the dancers. The flowing costumes of the performers looked magical during the numerous swirls. They even managed a change of costumes between performances making their act a visual delight. Their performance was enhanced by the ambience of the temple, so suited to the dance form. Sitting in the audience and watching them dance, I couldn't help thinking how appropriate the flowing garments are for the whirls in Kathak, while the tight costumes with a pleated fan in the lower garment that opens out beautifully when dancers strike the half-sitting (arai mandi) or full-sitting (muzhu mandi) pose are just right for Bharatanatyam.

Happy with my outings, when I looked up the performers later, I was even more impressed to learn that many of them have parallel careers in diverse fields. N R Prashanth is an engineering graduate in Instrumentation Technology from Mysore University. Medha Hari is a Chartered Accountant. Snigdha Venkataramani is not only a Carnatic vocalist, but also a Bharatanatyam dancer. In addition to this she has majored in Zoology and completed her Masters in Anthropology from Delhi University.

All this is very inspiring indeed!

Revisiting The Kalakshetra Saree

"Art is life. It is character. People think of art as if it were something far away from themselves. You may think of me as a dancer, an artist, but are you not going to be artist also? Have you not some art in you? My idea is that everyone is an artist, for everyone responds to beauty."

Rukmini Devi Arundale

Rukmini Devi is survived by Kalakshetra,  the magnificent academy she founded in 1936 for the preservation of traditional values in Indian arts and crafts, especially in the field of Bharatanatyam. It is a premier institute today, imparting training in classical dance and music to scores of students who go on to become dedicated teachers, researchers and performers of their art, taking it with them all over the world. Spread over a serene campus in Chennai, the institute reflects its founder's views on art and beauty in everything it does. The performance spaces, the classrooms, the lovely kolams, the colourful practice attire of the students, and the overall ambience oozes tradition and beauty.

I have had the pleasure of watching several dance dramas originally choreographed by Rukmimi Devi, and later revived by her illustrious students who are renowned dance gurus now. In all of them, not only the dance steps, but other things like the music and the costumes of the dancers are also presented according to her specifications.

The dance dramas are exquisite, but the focus of this post is on costumes and sarees. Rukmini Devi's aesthetic sense is evident in the beautifully colour co-ordinated costumes, with striking contrasts and unusual combinations. They are always very pleasant, and nothing is ever over-the-top.

Rukmini Devi maintained the same sense in her own sarees. She directed weavers to make elegant sarees for herself, and dance attires for her students. Slowly, a Kalakshetra saree came to be known as a precious possession amongst admirers.

Keeping in mind that textiles were an essential part of her dance dramas, Rukmini Devi had set up a weaving centre in a thatched hut in the premises just a year after Kalakshetra came into being. This not only gave means of livelihood to weavers, it also helped to keep the traditional craft alive at a time when markets were flooded with foreign-made clothes. That small hut has grown into a larger production unit called the Craft Education and Research Centre (CERC) over time.

Recently the CERC has revived some of Rukmini Devi's sarees. They are on view at an exhibition at the CERC until March 25. The original sarees are more than 50 years old. They are also part of the exhibition, neatly spread over white sheets on long tables. Also on view are the recreated sarees. There are 15 looms where inspired by the vision of Rukmini Devi, trained weavers are busy creating masterpieces in pure silk . Those who would like to own a piece of this beautiful heritage, can do so by placing an order for any of the sarees at the exhibition.

Photos by Lata

I am at the exhibition on a bright afternoon. The new sarees, neatly clipped to stands, are fluttering gently under the rotating ceiling fans. An artisan is bent over a parrot woven in one of the old sarees. Armed with a magnifying glass, he is busy transferring the pattern on a sheet of graph paper with dots and crosses. A little distance away, a stunning saree in yellow/orange and magenta is proudly displaying the same motif on its pallu. Besides four parrots, the pallu has two rows of shapely deer. The symmetry, proportions and colour scheme all complementing one another to make an outstanding work of art.

The CERC team is putting in a lot of hard work in creating these sarees. Everything from the yarn, to the zari, the motif, and the colour has to be just right. One feels a sense of loss looking at the original sarees, some in reasonable condition, some tattered. But at the same time, the newly woven creations swaying gently alongside reassure you about the preservation and continuation of this legacy.  

Simhanandini: A Feat With One's Feet!

Music and dance go hand in hand with temple rituals in South India. Temples were places where these arts thrived and flourished. Many of these arts have been carried forward by generations of practitioners. With changing times, they have moved from temples to performance spaces. Some of them are very much alive and are a part and parcel of cultural scenario across the country and abroad amongst art lovers. Others lagged behind because of their complexity, not having sufficient exposure and reach, the absence of enough performers or other reasons. But thanks to learners, researchers and performers, many of them are not only being revived but are also being practised and showcased in front of audiences across the world.

I witnessed one such gem recently. Called Simhanandini, it is a ritualistic temple dance belonging to the Kuchipudi style. This ritual calls for the dancer to draw an image of a lion using her feet. This is a part of worshipping the divine Goddess, the majestic lion being her vehicle. In olden times, devotees used to accomplish this feat in front of the temple chariot during Vijayadashami celebrations.

In the version that I saw, the dancer made deft use of her feet to draw the image in a large rectangle that had been filled with rangoli powder. Another way to do this is for the dancer to draw on a canvas after smearing her feet with coloured powder. The canvas can then be mounted on a frame for people to see her work.

The accompanying music for the performance is very special. It is set in six talas or rhythmic cycles, all adding up to the Simhanandana tala of 128 syllables or counts. The high-energy music and dance climax at the pièce de résistance: drawing a lion using the feet. 

What I saw was quite amazing. After what seemed like invoking the Goddess with the powerful music, the dancer entered the rectangle from the top left corner with small, firm steps and used her big toe to form an ear. Then with swift, gentle steps she moved across her "canvas" pressing her feet, at times forcefully, at times lightly; drawing face, body, legs and finally an upturned tale to create the magnificent simha. It did not take her long to create a wonderfully proportionate sketch prompting the audience to break into an admiring applause.

In the short break after the performance, people rushed to see the drawing from close quarters and take pictures. I managed to take just this one picture. It is not satisfactory, but just enough to get an idea of what all this is about.

There are two more variations of this art form. Called Mayura Kautvam and Mahalakshmi Udbhavam, they involve drawing a peacock and a lotus with one's feet. I am full of appreciation for the people who are working towards preserving these art forms and wish them well in their endeavour.  

I watched this performance at the Kalakshetra in Chennai. The dancer was noted Bharathanatyam and Kuchipudi exponent, Uma Murali.