A Scrapbook Of Photos From Kolkata!

I had been waiting to enjoy jhalmuri in Kolkata, and when it appeared in front of me in such an attractive way, I was delighted. This mixture of puffed rice with a variety of ingredients was tangy and spicy. I asked the vendor to add a bit of almost everything from his basket to the serving he was making for me, other than the customary mustard oil. Purists may scoff at my omission of this dressing, but I am afraid, my palate simply cannot take it. On the way from Kolkata to Shantiniketan.

Hordes of people had descended on the headquarters of the Ramakrishna Math and Mission. Founded by Swami Vivekananda, the temple draws on Hindu, Christian, Islamic and Buddhist architectural styles as a symbol of unity. The sprawling campus looked very colourful and picturesque, with hundreds of seasonal flowers blooming in the gardens. In spite of the crowds, it was serene; the quiet Hooghly flowing nearby adding to its beauty. At the Belur Math.

Taking a well-deserved break in the middle of a busy day! Somewhere in the vicinity of the Marble Palace.

It is not yet five in the evening and the sun is ready to set soon! A boatman at work with people enjoying the ride in his boat. The Vidyasagar Setu looks grand and imposing. At the Prinsep Ghat.

This window looks so striking with its lovely contrast! At the Jorasanko Thakur Bari.

The blue door attracted my attention. The cycle added an interesting dimension. And the plants provided a touch of life to the frame. In Kumartuli.

The small temple makes everything around it so bright and cheerful! I could not resist taking a picture. In Kumartuli.

Kolkata was the first city to begin Metro rail operations in India in 1984. I took a ride and liked the experience. At Shyambazar Metro station.

The Rabindra Sarobar and its surroundings offer excellent recreational spots to people of all ages. The area is well-maintained and clean. A great place to be outdoors in the middle of a busy metropolis. View from the Calcutta Rowing Club.

A walk along the Rabindra Sarobar.

It was nice crossing the river from Babu Ghat to Howrah in this passenger boat. The ride costs Rs. 6 and lasts only a few minutes. Got treated to lovely views of the iconic Howrah Bridge from the boat.

It is difficult to get the bridge in a single frame. This is the best I could get!

As I alighted from the passenger boat and walked up the ramp, the Howrah station was just across the road.

Hand-pulled rickshaws continue to ply in Kolkata. In fact, they are one of the cultural icons of the city. Rehabilitation of rickshaw pullers and introduction of battery-operated modern vehicles is the need of the hour. At Shyambazar.

These windows are so typical of Kolkata! This is the scene in a lane on a lazy Sunday morning. In Shyambazar.

People living upstairs and small businesses downstairs. The beautiful balconies and drying clothes are so lively and colourful! The trees, shops and homes present a happy picture of co-existence. At Shyambazar.

Photos by Lata

This is where one normally exits the Victoria Memorial halls. The halls were bursting at their seams with crowds. They are impressive and loaded with information on Kolkata and its people. It was interesting reading about the beginnings of the city and how it came to be the bustling metropolis that it is today. Also, about all the distinguished personalities in various fields who contributed to the growth and glory of Kolkata. Being there was a humbling and enriching experience!

Read my posts on Jorasanko Thakur Bari and Kumartuli here.

Of Kumartuli, Clay And Divinity In Kolkata!

From Jorasanko Thakur Bari, I head towards Kumartuli in an auto rickshaw. It is a short distance away. The auto driver stops at the mouth of a lane off Rabindra Sarani and asks me to enter Kumartuli from that point. 

I have always been fascinated by pictures of clay idols of Durga in the making, and had made it a point to include Kumartuli in my Kolkata itinerary. I had read about this potters' colony in magazines and newspapers. It has also been featured in the Vidya Balan starrer "Kahaani" (2012). The stunning idols of Durga that people adore and venerate during Durga Puja are created in the lanes and bylanes of this modest neighbourhood. 

I have been wondering what I will get to see here in the month of December. Durga Puja got over just a couple of months ago and it is too early to start making Durga idols for the next year. I so want to see the potters in action! As I start walking in the lane flanked by small studios on both sides, to my utter delight I notice forms of Goddess Saraswati, complete with her veena and swan being shaped in clay. I realise they are being made for Saraswati Puja which is celebrated in Bengal on Vasant Panchami. I thank my luck for the good timing and set out to explore further. 

There are some men sitting outside what looks like a small shop, and just to make sure that I don't get lost in the labyrinthine alleys I ask them in Hindi --if I want to come back to this point should I ask for Rabindra Sarani? One of them replies enthusiastically--Didi, Rabindra Sarani nei, tram rasta bolben. I smile and thank him for this useful tip. Yes, this is a tram route alright. With buoyed confidence because of my small headway in local parlance, and eager anticipation I walk ahead.

Hundreds of potters and their families live and work in this congested area. The studios are rather small and a lot of unfinished work is lying outside in the lanes. The inner frame of the idol is made with straw, and several forms of the Goddess at this stage are just bodies of straw in different sizes. The idols that are in more advanced stages of making have the straw covered with clay. Saraswati--sitting with her customary poise, a veena resting in her lap and a graceful swan at her feet--is taking shape. Many of them are headless. But several of them are complete with a head too! The round face is adorned with exquisite fish-like eyes, and it looks radiant even in a raw state. Kudos to the nimble fingers of the artisans who create divinity with clay in these humble surroundings.

As I go deeper in the bylanes, I notice other figures too. There she is as Durga with multiple arms and perched on a tiger, while elsewhere, as Kali she is ferocious with her tongue sticking out, and Shiva at her feet. What stands out in all these is the beautiful expressive face. And perfect proportions. Nothing is out of place. Everything exists in a harmonious balance. I can only imagine how magnificent they will look when their faces are painted, and when their saree and jewellery are in place.

Photos by Lata

I am surprised to see how unobtrusive and welcoming the artisans are. They go about their work without questioning my presence in their midst. And I am not the only one. There is a young visitor taking pictures with a sophisticated camera. Then there is a foreigner with an Indian guide who is relating mythological stories about these figures to her. There is another guest who is watching a potter and singing to him as the latter is busy at work. Kumartuli is also a popular destination for organised walks.

In spite of the abysmal conditions, people are friendly and lively. Children playing in the lanes, elders sitting outside their homes soaking in the sun, and potters chatting with neighbours and fellow potters during a break. They have put me completely at ease with their disarming smiles and easy manner. Filled with admiration for their art and their spirited way of life, I walk back to the point from where I had started. It is not difficult and I make it to the place without having to ask for tram rasta!