Wednesday, February 12, 2014

The CEO's Family Celebrates!

The newly appointed Microsoft CEO Satya Nadella's parents refused to entertain any questions from the media. You may read about it here. But it is a different story with Satbir Narela's folks. Read about it here:
 
New Delhi: The newly appointed Microsoft CEO Satbir "Sat" Narela's parents are ecstatic. When this reporter went looking for the residence of Sat's parents in an upmarket neighbourhood in Delhi, she could feel the hustle and bustle almost half a kilometre before she arrived at the sprawling bungalow. The area wore a festive look, with colourful balloons and festoons fluttering in the mild breeze.

A large shamiana had been erected in the lawns of the mansion. At the entrance, some people were dancing to the beats of a dholak. When they realized that this reporter was from a reputed daily with a photographer in tow, they made way for the duo immediately.

Inside, floral garlands hung from the balconies, doors and windows of the house. Electricians were busy hanging series of coloured bulbs to be lit at dusk. Kids in their party clothes were running around, ladies in their finery sat occupying the plastic chairs that had been rented from a local tent house for the day, while men stood here and there in small groups. Some were talking to one another, but most men and women were busy sending messages or chatting to others on their cell phones.

It wasn't difficult figuring out who Sat's parents were. They sat on two decorated chairs, the kind used for the bride and the groom at wedding receptions. As soon as visitors entered the shamiana, they walked up to the couple to congratulate them on their son's success. The couple sat on their thrones beaming, hugging their guests first and putting a laddoo in their mouths later.

This reporter was greeted in the same fashion by Sat's mother. When the formidable matriarch learnt about the purpose of the news team's visit, she informed her husband, whispering aji sunte ho in his ear. He got up from his chair, welcoming this scribe affectionately. He began rattling off his son's achievements right from the kindergarten. He then called out to Ramu Kaka who had been with the family for decades asking him to also get the driver, the cook, the gardener and other help from the house. Soon, so much was being told about the prodigal son that this reporter had a tough time keeping pace with the details.  Everybody wanted to pose for pictures and the photographer went on a clicking spree, capturing different groups in his frame.

When this activity reached a frenzy, the duo could not take it anymore and decided to leave the venue. On their way out, they paused to talk to some guests. Almost everybody they talked to, claimed to be a cousin, friend or teacher of Sat and were eager to tell how close they were to him.

Even the balloonwala outside the gate was not to be left behind. He said he used to bring a balloon for baby Sat every evening!

This is a satire and please take it in that spirit. I do not mean any offence to any community.

Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Magnificent Maheshwar


The majestic fort and temple complex stands elegantly by the banks of the genteel Narmada. The structure is massive, and in very good shape belying its almost three-century-old existence. The steps leading from the ghats to the fort complex look imposing and stately. We are on a boat sailing along the Narmada in Maheshwar.

The drive from Indore has been comfortable, taking 90-100 minutes for the 91-kilometer run on a cool sunny morning in late January. The fields on both sides of the road are lush green, alive with cotton, wheat and sugarcane crops. The roadside shops in villages are filled with farm-fresh juicy red carrots, huge white cauliflowers and bright green peas.


Once in Maheshwar, the fort is the obvious destination. The 18th century structure exudes beauty, and charms you with its simplicity. Nothing is over the top here. The carvings, walls and domes in the complex showcase a grandeur that is subtle, understated. Perhaps they reflect the demeanour of the woman who ruled Malwa from these precincts from 1767 to 1795.
 
Devi Ahilyabai Holkar (1725-1795) was clearly way ahead of her times. Married into the ruling family of Indore, she took the reins of the state in her hands after her husband, father-in-law and son passed away. Her father-in-law, Malhar Rao was a visionary who dissuaded her from committing sati after her husband's untimely death, and trained her in administrative and military matters. She moved the capital from Indore to Maheshwar--an ancient city that finds mention in the Ramayana and the Mahabharata--and ran her kingdom efficiently, justly and courageously. An ardent devotee of Shiva, she built many temples and dharmashalas (guest houses for pilgrims) in several places. The present day Maheshwar owes its development to her.

The Rajwada (Royal Residence) is built around a central courtyard having partially covered wide corridors on all sides. These lead into rooms. Today, these corridors give us an idea of what life must have been like in the days of yore. There is a life-sized statue of Ahilyabai seated at the head of one of the corridors. The floor is covered with comfortable mattresses under clean white sheets. Maybe Ahilyabai gave an audience to her subjects here. She is known to have had regular public meetings during her rule. Her palki (palanquin) and some arms are also on display. Another beautiful sculpture stands tall just outside the building.

The fort overlooks the river Narmada. There is a point on the topmost part of the fort from where one can get a lovely view of the river flowing gently below. The colourful boats bobbing up and down the water, people worshipping the holy river and pilgrims bathing on its ghats add their own charm to the view. The fort houses the large Rajarajeshwar Temple. Its dome dominates the skyline. There are several temples in the town. Prominent among them are the Sahastrarjun Mandir, Kashi Vishwanath Mandir, Chaturbhuj Narayan Mandir, Chintamani Ganapati Mandir, Ram and Krishna Mandir, Bhavani Mata Mandir and Khedapati Hanuman.

Photos by Lata
Maheshwar is known for its superfine silk/cotton sarees. Adorned with distinctive borders, they look very classy. They are produced by local weavers on hand-operated looms. It was Ahilyabai who had sown the seeds of this cottage industry with a view to provide means of livelihood to her people. Once flourishing, it had begun to disintegrate with time. It was revived by Richard Holkar, a scion of the erstwhile ruling family. This industry now functions under REHWA Society, giving employment to many women. There is a small unit in the fort where one can see looms in operation, and fabric and sarees being produced by weavers. They are kept for sale in an adjacent shop. They are sold in other parts of the town too. Madhya Pradesh State emporia all over the country stock and sell these beautiful Maheshwari sarees.

Situated at a short distance from Indore - the industrial capital of Madhya Pradesh - Maheshwar makes for a good getaway either for just a day trip or for a relaxed stay over a few days. The state government runs a hotel, and there are some private hotels too. The fort houses a heritage hotel called Ahilya Fort. One can find five-star comfort in an ethnic setting here. As for us, we returned to Indore the same evening, drinking freshly squeezed sugarcane juice for the road. Laced with ginger and lemon, it was the sweetest, most delicious and refreshing drink I have had in a long time.

Thursday, December 5, 2013

Kanchipuram In A Day

The temple town of Kanchipuram, well-known all over the world for its famed silk sarees, is located just about 75 kilometres from Chennai. Connoisseurs of temple architecture can spend days admiring the astonishing display of sculpture and art in the ancient temples. Or one can just make a day trip to get a glimpse of our heritage and history, scattered all over the town in the form of temples big and small. We did the latter.


Our first stop was the sprawling Ekambareswarar Temple Complex. Read more about the temple here. This has been in existence since at least 600 AD. That makes it one of the most ancient temples in South India. The main hall with pillars is very impressive. As is the practice in this part of the world, it gets darker and darker when you get closer to the sanctum sanctorum. The deity is visible for just a few seconds in the dim light of the lamp held by one of the priests and then you move on.


The outer pavilion is lined with a galaxy of deities. This magnificent Ganesha in black stone is one of them.


All Shiva temples in South India have a pond outside. This beautiful pond adds a lot of charm to the Ekambareswarar Temple.


And this is the Nandi, mandatory for any Shiva temple.


This imposing Gopuram can be seen from a distance. With these pictures, I first took you inside the temple, and then brought you out, looking at the surroundings. Next stop, Kailasanathar Temple. More about it here.

 

This is more open, having lovely green patches of lawn outside. Some parts of it have been restored over time and they look different. But it is still very beautiful, representing Dravidian architecture in great style.


A restored panel at the Kailasanathar Temple.



Some views of the temple. All the walls are crammed with sculptures depicting humans and animals.


There are many such unusual forms, lining the boundary walls of the temple.


This is one of my favourite pictures. The Nandi in subdued colour in the foreground with women in bright sarees in the background. I did not actually plan this, but I am happy that it has come out this way.


Our third stop, the Sri Kanchi Kamakshi Ambal Temple. More about it here.


There was this painted elephant at the entrance, blessing people. It provided the visitors with some excitement and entertainment, and its owner with some income in the form of the money that was offered to it.


Offerings to the Goddess, available at the entrance.


Many devotees were carrying heavy garlands entirely made with lotuses for the Goddess. I had never seen lotus garlands before this. Pretty, aren't they?


Fourth stop, the Varadaraja Perumal Temple. Read about it here. The presiding deity here is Vishnu. But unfortunately we could not enter the premises as the temple had closed for the afternoon. All temples in South India remain shut for four to five hours in the afternoon. So, one should start as early in the morning as possible from Chennai to make the most of the visit.


A close view of the same.


I had to be content taking pictures from the outside. Entry had closed. Only those who had entered earlier were still inside.


These old houses lining the street leading to the temple looked very interesting. Children enjoyed a game of cricket while adults were probably taking a nap inside.

Pictures by Lata

And last, but not the least...a saree shop! There are large showrooms offering silk sarees in the main part of the town. But all over the town, one can see such small shops--some of them operating from houses--selling sarees. I got one for myself too!

Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Lotus Hocus Pocus!

This post has been inspired by a news item that appeared in The Times Of India today. To read it, click here.

Lotus farmers in Madhya Pradesh, beware! The Congress does not like the flowers that are blooming in your ponds. In fact, they are exploring ways to cover all the ponds with some waterproof material that will hide the unsightly blossoms from public view. The foremost condition is that the material should be completely opaque. Lightness, durability and reasonable price are other factors that will be looked at before assigning the task to an agency. Several proposals are flooding the Congress headquarters in the state. It is learnt that this project is being given top priority. Party office bearers are busy screening all the applications, while those who have submitted the proposals are waiting with bated breath to find out who the winner of this lucrative deal is going to be.

No doubt, this is going to be quite an arduous task. The terms of the contract will include identifying lotus-infested ponds in the state and covering their surfaces completely with some suitable material. This extreme measure has been necessitated by the sudden realization dawning on a few members of the Congress party that the wretched flower resembles the election symbol of the Bharatiya Janata Party. Now, anybody in his or her right mind would not want the voters to be reminded of the BJP when they are looking at a pond filled with lotuses, would they? Hence this cover-up seems to be the only option that would take care of the problem without offending anybody.

Picture by Lata
Some promising members of the party have shown rare far-sightedness and have already started thinking about how the pictures of Lakshmi, the Goddess of wealth, that adorn many houses and shops all over the state, can be altered making the customary flower invisible. This is a tricky task and no solution is in sight yet, though frantic efforts are going on.

Some enterprising loyalists of the party have drawn the seniors' attention to the fact that many men and women in the state are named after the flower and its synonyms. It is a deep-rooted tradition and very difficult to undo, but hey, maybe somebody would come up with a remedy for that too. After all, there's no harm in trying, is there?

Meanwhile the Bharatiya Janata Party in the state has got wind of the massive cover-up project about to be taken up by the Congress. They have started thinking in terms of ways to hide the hand. Now, one sympathises with the BJPwallahs as they have a humongous task laid out for them. Somebody proposed gloves, but it did not go down well with many in the Party. They said that the shape of the hand does not change even if it is covered with a glove. They are working on the feasibility of providing loose robes for everybody which would hide the whole hand behind their folds. As for the workability of this idea, trials are under way.

Saturday, September 28, 2013

The Lunchbox: A Feast Sans Dessert !

Warning: Contains spoilers.

These days, a film's life is very short. By that measure, "The Lunchbox" has already been around for some time (more than a week), and a lot has been written and discussed about it by now. I saw the film, relished most of it, but there were some things that left a slightly sour taste.

No doubt, it is a sweet, simple story told very well. Mumbai comes alive on the screen just as it is: crowded, always on the move, and busy. In spite of being chock-a-block with people, each and every resident of this metropolis is an island within herself or himself...lonely, secluded, caught in the rhythmic cycle of life in a big city.

When a wrongly delivered lunchbox becomes the link between two strangers, it allows both of them to share their feelings, their memories, their insecurities and their fears in an uninhibited manner. They look forward to reading the handwritten notes in it with hope, anticipation and longing. The multi-tiered container becomes a symbol of friendship that brightens up their otherwise drab lives. In the course of this friendship, they get a chance to introspect, find courage and discover the other side of their persona that they didn't know existed.



Irrfan Khan's portrayal of Saajan (wonder if anyone has that for a first name!) Fernandes, an irritable, unfriendly and dour widower is brilliant. His life revolves around the heaps of files on his office desk, his daily commute in overflowing trains, and his smoking break in the balcony every evening while looking yearningly at a neighbour's dining room full of people.

Nimrat Kaur as Ila, the middle class homemaker is very natural when she moves around her cramped place cooking, cleaning and tending to her daughter. She dishes out sumptuous delicacies day after day hoping to win her indifferent husband's attention. What gives her a break in between these repetitive chores is her interaction through the window with her unseen neighbour, a spunky Bharati Achrekar as Deshpande Aunty, who manages to leave a mark only with her distinctive voice.

But who takes the cake among the three lead actors is the affable Shaikh, played by Nawazuddin Siddiqui. He brings a smile to your lips with his street smartness, his never say die attitude and his exuberant optimism. He is funny without adopting any unnatural mannerisms, without any exaggerated gestures and without any loudness. In fact, he is as close to the Mumbaikar in spirit as one can get.

Lillete Dubey has a small role, but her character looks over the top considering the subtle tone of the whole film. The suggestion that Ila's husband might be having an affair is so subtle that you doubt its veracity. And the end? Well, I think after watching a film through its entire length, one deserves to see the story being brought to a proper end. An ambiguous end could be taken as the writer/director's inability to bring his/her tale to a conclusion. To me, the film seemed like a feast served without dessert.

Monday, September 23, 2013

"Anumati": The Permission

I stumbled upon a Marathi film "Anumati" (2013) on the telly the other day. I liked what I saw. 

Ratnakar (Vikram Gokhale) is a retired school teacher, a romantic at heart; a poet. His wife Madhu (Neena Kulkarni) is the force that has been steering their family, leaving Ratnakar to dream, read and write. Both their children--a son and a daughter--are married, and busy with their own families. The elderly couple lives in a small house in picturesque Shrivardhan, a town by the beach along the Konkan coast.

We come to know all this in bits and pieces, through flashbacks. The film opens when the comatose Madhu is lying in a Mumbai hospital, her distraught husband by her side. She has suffered a brain haemorrhage, and is being kept on life support systems. Each additional day at the hospital costs money and they have already exhausted their modest savings in the last few days. The doctors are fuelling the family's hopes in their characteristic measured words.

Ratnakar is hopeful, his son is not. He is under pressure from his son to sign the "Do not resuscitate" form, but he cannot bring himself to authorize an act that might end Madhu's life. He turns to his daughter and his brother for help. He is ready to sell his house in Shrivardhan. He just wants the hospital to try for a few more days, hoping that Madhu would recover.The story underlines the ugly commercial aspect of hospitals today: exploiting people emotionally in order to run their business.

Vikram Gokhale is a veteran who delivers a powerful performance, expressing the pain, desperation and helplessness of Ratnakar with finesse. His small interactions with his daughter, daughter-in-law, brother and son are enough to tell us what kind of relationships they share with each other. And though the story is centred around a patient on a hospital bed, we are not confined to that small room. Ratnakar's efforts to raise money take us to different places, allowing us snippets from the lives of his extended family; and treating us to some wonderful shots of Konkan in the rain. The cinematographer is Govind Nihalani!

Ratnakar's childhood friend Ambu (Reema) brings a lot of energy with her entry into the story. Her scenes with Ratnakar are warm, positive and definitely feel-good.

It is a sensitive subject, handled extremely well by director Gajendra Ahire. He has written the screenplay, dialogue and composed music too. Kishore Kadam, Subodh Bhave, Sai Tamhankar and Neha Pendse are all very good in their supporting roles. It is a touching story of love, told very simply. No wonder then that it has won wide critical acclaim, and that Vikram Gokhale has bagged the National Film Award for Best Actor.

Thursday, August 22, 2013

Happy Birthday, Chennai!

Name: Chennai (Madras)
Date of birth: August 22, 1639
Place of birth: The strip of land where Fort St. George stands today

Well, Chennai is supposed to have been founded on this day in 1639 when a piece of land along the coast was bought by the East India Company from the local chieftain. Acquired with a view to get a foothold in their trading activities, they started building a harbour and a fort here. The construction went on for some years and the fort was ready on 23 April, 1644; a day celebrated as St. George's Day in England in honour of its patron saint. Naturally, the fort was called Fort St. George. Soon, it became a centre of mercantile activity, and settlements developed around it. These settlements were the seeds that grew into what we now know as Chennai. As it enters the 375th year of its existence today, its citizens are throwing a big birthday party for their beloved city. Called "Madras Day", the party goes on for almost a month.

Started in 2004 by a small group of writers, journalists, entrepreneurs and historians, the "Day" consists of a number of events like walks, exhibitions, film shows, online contests, quizzes, bicycle rides and public talks that celebrate the culture, heritage and spirit of Chennai. Many activities in this year's schedule interested me and I participated in one, namely the Fort St. George Heritage Walk. Now, the term "fort" might sound like a misnomer if one goes there expecting the grandeur of some of the best Mughal, Maratha and Rajput forts. Well, the flag post (tallest in the country at 150 ft.) and the moat at the entrance are impressive, but once you step inside, what you see is a cluster of different buildings.

The Cornwallis Cupola is the first thing you notice as you enter. It looks nice and is definitely a photographers' delight. The administrative headquarters of the legislative assembly of Tamil Nadu and the Secretariat are located inside the Fort premises. Many structures are part of military establishment. Then there is St. Mary's Church (built in 1678-1680), the oldest Anglican church in India, Wellesley House, the residence of Robert Clive and the Fort Museum among others. I was there on a Sunday morning, as part of a group led by journalist and publisher Vincent D'Souza. There were not too many people there that day, but I am told the place is bustling with crowds on weekdays...few of them tourists, most visiting the government departments situated inside the Fort. Of course even on a Sunday, the mandatory posse of policemen was there as this is a high security area.

It had rained the previous night when we went there. The streets were punctuated with puddles, but the ancient trees looked fresh and bright. Some of the buildings are maintained well, while some others are dilapidated. Interestingly, some buildings have turned into ruins because of trees growing out of their walls. They must have started as small plants which flourished, eventually eating into the walls. The structures that are still standing are indeed very solid and look good.

We did not enter the church as a service was in progress inside. But we did climb up the wide staircase inside the Clive residence to go up to the wooden-floored banquet hall. It is bare now and one can only imagine the opulence of the banquets that might have been hosted there. The chambers and verandas in this and some of the other buildings have high ceilings supported by tall columns, giving them a stately look. Had to give a miss to the museum as it was not covered in the group's activities for the day, but would like to visit it some other time.

I would think of Fort St. George not as a typical tourist destination, but as a place of interest for those who would like to take a glimpse into the history of Chennai. Meanwhile, the "birthday" celebrations go on. Definitely looking forward to being a part of the events in the future editions of Madras Day!